[KWIK 69]

I want to remove the A/C box from my engine compartment. My compressor and condenser are long gone, so I'm going to get rid of the rest of the under-hood components to free up some space.
I've got the front clip off right now, so now would be a good time.
Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on procedure or what I might need?


(I posted this question a few weeks ago in a different forum, just thought I'de try it again here where it belongs)

[smalblock]

kwik 69, i welded a 20 gauge sheet metal on the back side of the heater box opening and smoothed it with body filler. i also welded a cover over the hole for the blower. you will have to replace your kick panels with non air kick panels for ventilation. jack

[KWIK 69]

So you did away with the heater?
I'de like to keep my heat/defrost functions. I didn't know if I could just buy a heater core case cover to fit as a non-a/c car, and then patch the remaining hole above.

[Mark C]

Don't do it. The wiring and ventilation systems on an A/C car are so different that it will be a major effort to swapp all the peices. If you really wat to get rid of the Suitcase, just cut it down so that it is the same height as the little skinny section between the blower and the large section, glass over the opening. Drill a hole for the blower motor resistor and leave the rest of it alone.

An A/C car has no way to bring fresh air into the upper vents (the two on the dash). In a normal car these connect to two 3" diameter holes in the cowl area and have shutoff valves controlled by sliders on the kick panel. A/C cars don't have this feature, and if you start putting the complete non Ac system into the car, then the upper dash vents become useless. Theres numerous electrical changes you need to make, along with the control head, new kcick panels, etc. Major pain in the butt.

You will affect the future value of your car by doing anything more than cutting down the suitcase. It's hard to find a complete suitcase, but it's better than making sheet metal changes to the car.

[smalblock]

kwik69, mark is correct in his post. when i removed my factory heat/air, i wanted to clean up my fire wall. i had a lot of parts missing, also. i plan on installing an after market behind the dash street rod type heat and air unit. Jack

[KWIK 69]

For now, I'm going to chop the evap box down and bolt it back on.

Does anyone have any recommendations on HOW to "glass" a new top on it? Should I start with some sheet metal and smooth it with fiberglass filler?

In the future when my budget allows, I intend to add a vintage air unit under the dash.

[Mark C]

I don't know why you would want to remove an original A/C system and replace it later with an aftermarket system, but it's you car. The original system works just fine, and the only downside is that it takes up a lot of space in the engine compartment.

But if you want to cut down the evaporator box I think I would remove the whole thing (means pulling the passenger fender and possibly the exhaust system on the passenger side). Split the case in half (if you didn't do that to get it out)Then pull out the evaporator. Find a point on the fenderside where it looks like it could be cut flush with the skinny section between the evaporator section and the fan section but dont cut is so far back that the two rear most screws that hold the case halves together get removed. Then bolt the other half back on and cut it donw level with the first cut you made. I think it would be easier to work with a thin fiber board as a backer than a piece of sheetmetal. Cut a peice that will fit inside the opening in the case that you just made and hold it inplace with some small wood screws through the side of the case. Glass over the board and wrap it down the sides but don't cover the screws. When that sets up remove the screws and then finish glassing over the board. You should also put a layer or two on the inside as well as this will make it stronger. Note that you will no longer be able to break the case in two pieces when you are done, so make sure you can get it back into the car without pulling a head if the engine is in the car. If there is enough room on the top of the case leave your blower motor resistor and fan relay where they are, otherwise if you have to move them, make sure the wires will reach as the pigtails on the connectors are not very long. You can cut the wires to the low temperature switch since the compressor is gone, but make sure you leave the fan power connector and ground wire intact.

[KWIK 69]

Thanks again, Mark.
Is fiberboard same as cardboard? If not, where do you get it?

The only remnant of the existing a/c unit is the evaporator and evap box, everything else is gone and wiring is chopped to all but the blower motor. The evap box has a hole in it near the header which allows MEGA heat in...
One of my goals is to free up some engine compartment room. I specifically searched for a 69 w/o air...but you take what you can get. LOL

All of front end is removed at this point to paint the subframe & firewall. The evap box is on the work bench ready for cleaning & surgery.

After looking at it all and seeing how it all goes together, I think you are right in your assessment on an economical way to achieve the conversion. Thanks again for passing on the wisdom. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[68ragtop]

my deal is different, someone hacked my firewall up prevously to me purchasing the car. they added factory style air out of a donor car. I'm installing a big block and was gonna run a vintage air setup to save space, now i've decided to switch back to a non AC, Big Block setup. I intend to clean up the firewall, the wiring i have is for non ac. My question is are the inside section of suitcase the same for small or big block???

[KWIK 69]

Speaking of holes.... there is a 1" diameter hole in the very lowest point of the evap box as shown in the above pic that has a clip-ring and a few particles of dry-rotted rubber or hose around it.

What was this hole for (condensation drain maybe?)and is it NOW needed or can it now be filled?

[68ragtop]

Yep, that's a drain for the condensation, no AC, no drain needed

[Mark C]

Fiberboard is a high density cardboard product. It is fairly rigid, and lightweight sort of like particle board, but it doesn't have any big chunks in it. Sometimes it is call MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) places like home Depot carry it in 2' by 2' or 2' by 4' sections in their plywood aisle. You can get anything from 1/8" to about 1/2" thick pieces for anywhere between $2 and $8. 1/8" is more than enough for this application.

Originally posted by 68ragtop:
my deal is different, someone hacked my firewall up prevously to me purchasing the car. they added factory style air out of a donor car. I'm installing a big block and was gonna run a vintage air setup to save space, now i've decided to switch back to a non AC, Big Block setup. I intend to clean up the firewall, the wiring i have is for non ac. My question is are the inside section of suitcase the same for small or big block???

If your going completely back to a non A/C setup then yes the inside heater duct system and controls on a non a/C car are all the same except for the heater core itself. They carry different assembly numbers in the assembly manuals but I think that that is because they are an assembly that already has the heater core inside it and not a series of individual part numbers.

The inside duct system is completly different between an A/C system and a non A/C system so how much you need to replace depends on how thorough the previous owner was. The only part that is the same between the two systems (A/C and non A/C)is the defroster ducts' and the air louvers in the corners of the dash.

[68ragtop]

Are the inside portions the same for small and big blocks? (non AC)

[Mark C]

Yes, see above.

[68ragtop]

Thanks Mark, that's great.

I see where someone fiberglassed over the holes in the cowl, so now i gotta try to find the inside portion of the heaterbox for a non AC car and whatever ducting I can get my hands on. I'll also pick up an aftermarket firewall side heat box for big block, a heater core and have at it... of course i'll need to weld in some steel to fill the hacks