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Heating & Cooling Heating, cooling and air conditioning

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  #1  
Old Apr 14th, 03, 09:51 AM
Blade1 Blade1 is offline

 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Norcross, GA (USA)
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Dear Friends,

My 1984 Camaro Z runs at apx 220 degrees- what can I do to keep the temperatures down? I am on a fixed budget.


The engine that originally came with the car was the 5 Liter TBI motor. But now, the car has a carbureted 350. The engine is a 1982 year block. It is all stock except for a competition camshaft (specs unknown)- the connecting rods, crank, and pistons are all stock. However, the car does have headers, flowmaster mufflers, 3 inch single exhaust, an Edelbrock aluminum intake, and an Edelbrock 4 BBL carburetor (600 CFM?).


There is one piece of the shroud missing- the bottom piece. The rest of the cooling system is functioning and is in place. The radiator is either stock or is analogous to stock, as is the water pump and the mechanical clutch type fan. The thermostat is a 180 degree thermostat. The coolant is a 50/50 mix.


I am getting ready to do two things. One is I want to install WATER WETTER. Will this help keep the temps down at all? Also, the radiator cap is old and worn out. I intend to replace it as well.


How can I keep my engine cool? I have been running the defroster on full blast- but the temps still linger around 220 degrees. This engine is strong, but it does not like to stay cool. Can you make any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


- Blade
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  #2  
Old Apr 14th, 03, 10:20 AM
Spames Spames is offline
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You recently posted this same question here:
http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimat...;f=19;t=000037
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  #3  
Old Apr 14th, 03, 11:22 AM
Mark C Mark C is offline
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The bottom shroud and lower air passages around the front spoiler on third generation F-bodies are critical to getting good airflow through the radiator and getting heat out of the engine compartment. Fix those first. See if you can get ahold of an IR thermometer and get a temperature reading off the thermostat housing on top of the engine. Compare that to the temperature reading on the gauge to see if your gauge if off.
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Old Apr 15th, 03, 04:51 AM
69X11SS 69X11SS is offline
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Do not use water wetter in a street application. it is not formulated to be used with any type of coolant. It is for use in straight H2O only. It should be used in race vehicles only. Definately replace your radiator cap. The cooling system is supposed to be pressureized to maximize coolant flow. If you have large amounts of air being sucked into the cooling system it can cause cavitation in the water pump and create air pockets in your cooling system which will also increase you temp.
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Old Apr 15th, 03, 02:11 PM
blackvi blackvi is offline
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BLADE,

One thing you may wanna check is the "Air Dam" under the radiator assembly. It definitely helps air get to the radiator.

The shroud will help as well, so find the other piece to it. if you can... check local junk yards.

I would also lower the mix you are running on the coolant, all you need is 30% max, especially being from Georgia. For the greater part of the year all I run is Straight distilled water - No coolant.

I also have a Stewart water pump, a 17 lb radiator cap, and aluminum radiator. but if you dont want to make the initial investment and get all that, I would suggest the radiator cap, and definitely water to cool things off better.

I would suggest a CarQuest Thermostst as well. I've gotten the AutoZone and Advanced Auto Therm's... but still ran inconsistant temps. the CarQuest Therm sits constantly at the rated temp, and does the job!

What ever you do, make the changes quickly, Summer is Like Africa in the SOUTH... No Relief!

Good Luck!

Jerry!!!
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