[Rob.Canada]

Okay the rad starting spewing antifreeze all over the drive way, looks like the tank to the core is shot, good erxcuse to tell the wife I need to get a new one, won't even mention the thought of a repair.... she wouldn't understand!!!
So I am leaning towards a big block 4 core radiator, around here it going set me back $375.00 & 15% tax. In Yankee bucks it works out to about 225.00.
Has any one put a BB rad in a SB car, (don't fotget I'm running Factory AC as well) and any problems you encountered?????
Thinking maybe an aluminum Griffin, $600.00 plus in Canadian dollars, Are these factory fit????
or is there some Trial and error fittings with the griffin aluminum????
Would like to hear from every body, Blondie has stay in the garage this weekend, will be looking to make the purchase come Monday.
Thanks in advance
Rob...

[RW68RSConv]

My '68 is small block w/ A/C. The Big block radiator is longer (wider) but the holes are already punched from the factory where it goes in the core support. Just move your bolts (right side as you face the engine. You will need to switch to a different fan shroud (if current factory one is in place).

My father owned a raditor shop so he custom built one with a hi-effciency 4-core that fit the smaller small block size. Nobody can tell, it uses the factory tanks and hangers, and keeps the car at 180degrees all day long. I don't know what the price would be for someone to do this for you - my cost was $0.
Good Luck!

[ckaram]

I'm running a small block, but I went the route of a local rad shop installing a high efficiency 4 core in my stock tanks. It fit right in and I think I spent about $180.

[Mark C]

In 69 there are only two 8 cylinder radiator shrouds one for all small blocks and one for all big blocks. All 69 big blocks and the heavy duty small block radiators are 23" wide, all standard duty radiators are 21" wide. All big block radiators are either 3 or 4 core. Small blocks are either 2 or 3 cores thick.

You can not use a big block shroud on a small block installation since the fan opening is shifted to the passenger side by an inch. The regular small block shroud works just fine.

Watchout when your buying Griffin or other aftermarket radiators since they measure their radiators edge to edge, not by the width of the core.

[DOUG G]

I had problems when I went to my 406SBC.I ended up using a 21" 3 core, with shroud ,from one of the parts houses <D&R,Ricks,Ect.> and have had no problems.

[HOTRODSRJ]

The best bang for the buck is the PRC series from www.streetrodstuff.com/Products

They will custom make a two row aluminum high performance crossflow for about $350.

I have sent no less than 100 people over to www.streetrodstuff.com and nary a complaint.

Talk to Dick Z over there.......quality product.

If you want more references go to www.chevytalk.com and go to the performance forums or to http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi and ask about the product. I have one in the 69 small block (400+hp) air, hotatlanta traffic and climate....never comes off the thermostat cycling point.

[joe clance]

I second the streetrod stuff PRC radiator. I had a custom made camaro aluminum that is oversized and utilizes the entire 22" of rad support opening for cooling fin area. It also bolts to the far set of bolt holes on the radiator support, and provides > 4 gallons of capacity ( engine + hoses + radiator. I worked with Dick Z to design this radiator for my camaro. Dick Z has the drawlings and specs for this oversized camaro radiator.


However, it was designed for an electric fan w/ no shroud.
good luck
joe c

[ztoy]

Only problem I encountered was finding an upper radiator hose

[Rob.Canada]

Thanks for all the replies, I went with the big block replacement, compared fan shrouds, stayed with the small block, 2 inches to left are not covered by the shroud, fans lines up proper.
The lower left bolt hole is a blind hole opening 1/2 inch, looking for a colapse nut, but can only find it up to 1/4" bolt size, if I had next size up, 5/16 it should work.
The lower rad hose was no problem as the right side is the same, as far as the upper hose, it moved 2 inches' left, and about 1 rearward, looks like it will fit no problems, Will get back to you let you know how the Temps work out.
Rob.

[DKPerfmnce]

I see you went with big block replacement radiator but I had to mention that I too went with the streetrod PRC radiator.
I think they did a nice job, it fit beautifully and seems to cool well. I haven't had the car on the road yet so can't say anything about that yet.
But, I have a new 350 engine which I found in the past tend to run a little hot in the beginning until they break in some.
It stay's right on the 180 degree thermostat.

[Rob.Canada]

WHOO HOO
Got the rad all bolted up, went for a spin, (running an open thermostat) the old girl never went over 150 on the temp gauge, Pushed it over 100 mph for about 5 miles, stayed right at the 150 degrees, If I tried that last year it was cooking at 230 degrees.
I sorta lied it climbed to 165 at the gas station while it was shut down but dropped right back to the 150 when restarted.
Who would have thunk it, the old rad looked perfect fins, tubes ect.
Com on July!!!!!! No more babying it all summer!!

[Brian Lewis]

Now this brings up a good question. Should we run a 160 or 180 degree thermostat? I have a 4 row radiator that can easily handle my 383, it keeps it at 180 all the time but I think I have a 180 thermostat.... Wouldn't it be best to keep my engine at 160 if I can do it?

[Rob.Canada]

I know 150 is not warm enough and I will have to put in a thermostat, I am leaning towards a 160 as most of the driving will be in JUNE JULY and AUGUST. The old Camaro under hood temp get pretty hot, why add to it, In the newer cars a higher temp is required to meet emmission tests.
My vote stay with the 180, if the car runs good.
Rob.

[HOTRODSRJ]

Thermostats do NOT control the ABILITY of your system to cool. They simply control the range of operation assuming the capability is there. If you designed/built capability in your system, you can pick any thermostat range and operate successfully there all the time!

I do NOT recommend a 160 thermostat at all. A 160 vs a 185 will not keep your system any cooler if you are constantly operating over the cycling/opening point of the thermostat!

And moreover, at 160 degrees the accummulated moisture will not get evaporated out completely and the lubricants are made to work better above 175 degree ambient coolant temperatures. I run everything above 175 and mostly at 185.

[chicane67]

I say a 180*. A 160 is way too cold.