[jmys67]

Hey guys...Im about to start bending brake lines for my 67. Im using stainless 1/16" line. I also have a willwood prop valve. I have the tube benders and dbl flare tool. Im looking for information about the tech side of the lines such as is it true that the left and right front lines have to be the same length? Is that why there is loops in the lines coming from the master? Are the loops necessary? I have also seen the p.valve suspended between the lines or should attach to the firewall?
Can someone direct me to some photos of a completed job as an example? The engine compartment shots in mags are always too far away. Ok thanks for the time. Oh yea, no booster.
sorry that was a typo i am using 3/16

[ 01-30-2004, 01:36 PM: Message edited by: jmys67 ]

[Vic_68]

Stock the lines OD's are 1/8" to the fronts and a 3/16 goes to the rear. Pretty sure the loops are there for the factory assemble since the lines are installed to the subframe and the master is mounted to the body this allow for some bending if they don't quite line up.

Hope this helps,
Vic

[Everett#2390]

Length of tubing is not an issue for pressure, if in a closed system. "An increase in pressure is transmitted equally through the liquid/fluid." This is true if the system does NOT have leak.

[gjohnson]

I had an idea that the loops might be there to allow movement since the lines go from the subframe to the body( master cyl) which are tied together with rubber mounts.
Just a thought.
Guy

[dnult]

I think you are right about vibration Guy. My tubing bender wasn't capable of doing 360* bends so I just bent a long 'V' shape the points back toward the booster and forward again to the ports on my combination valve. But I believe in 67+ the real intent of the coiled lines was to compensate for cars with and without power brakes. The same lines could be hand bent by the assembly workers to fit either configuration.

[ohcscott]

the loops are there to allow for flex without distressing the metal over time.

you can make the loops by bending the tubing around a 1.5"-1.75" diameter pipe.

my car has 3/16" front and 1/4" rear line to the axle, where it T's off to 3/16" again.

[Kyvox]

http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...c;f=7;t=005149

[SY1]

jmys congrats on selecting the double flaring tools. They'll pay for themselves in a hurry. I make all my own lines and double flare is the only safe way to go, plus it's what the cars came with. The bigger problem you're going to have is flaring then double flaring stainless tubing. My advice is buy a lot of extra tubing because stainless cracks when flared and it is very difficult to double flare. Of course this depends largely on several factors and tubing wall thickness and tubing O.D. are too of them. The larger tubing is more difficult to flare without it cracking. That's why almost every large airframe manufacturer prefers not to flare stainless lines, but rather will go with MS flareless tube fittings. The only exception I can think of to this is Dee Howard who makes amoung other things thrust reverser systems and I've seen several of their stainless -4 flared lines cracked during airframe inspections and right off the parts shelf. You can flare stainless lines, but it may take you some practice and use a magnifying lens to inspect the flare carefully before using it as the cracks can often be very small and undetectable with the naked eye.