[ChuckD]

Hey gang, anybody have any success on refinishing a Muncie so it looks like a new(er) trans? I plan on taking my trans out for a general inspection and re-seal, but want it to look "restored" when it, and all the rest of the hardware goes back in. I'll pull bellhousing/shift linkage/clutch linkage/driveshaft, etc, but the trans is my question. Natural and clean? Cast Blast? Alumacast? Not sure. What works best? Thanks!!

[z28doug]

Hey Chuck,
I bead blasted mine and then took an SOS pad with a little water to kind of dull the finish down a little. Probably not a "technically" correct finish but it looks good to me. The rebuild was a year ago and it still looks fine. I'm happy with the way I did it. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
Another option is send it to MacNeish and have him refinish it.
Hope that helps a little,
Doug

P.S. I put a couple of layers of duct tape on the stampings during the time the transmission shop was freshening up my Muncie. Didn't want them to get dinged up.

[68RSZEE]

I haven't tried it, but what about cast aluminum mag wheel cleaner? I've heard you sqiurt it on and it foams up while cleaning. Outta work on intake too.

[69X11SS]

Those cleaners work to remove the grease and grime but on a non-polished surface they leave a dull residue. Bead blasting is the way to go.

[68ragtop]

I've used the aluminum wheel cleaner (non coated) and have had good results.

John

[hugger_sixty_nine]

Bead blasting or glass beading leaves a light gray finish that is non natural. The original finish was a bit darker and can best be achieved by having the case lightly tumbled in a tumbler machine with steel shot. This leaves the case looking a lot more original than blasting. Only problem is that you need the entire trans apart to do this for the case and the tail shaft. That is of course not a problem if you are rebuilding the tranny. The other option is to have it reskinned where it is as near to original as possible.

I was fortunate to have a good friend do mine and he did a beuatiful job. He does 100's of these each year and can detail these to the nines. Here are a couple pictures when completed. If you want to send him one for a professional rebuild, I can send his contact info to you.




[ 05-12-2004, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: hugger_sixty_nine ]

[CamarosRus]

I agree with Hugger 69 above. There may be a variety of home fixes to TRY and simulate the correct look, but nothing IS as original except metal shot blasting. MANY/MOST Foundrys put there sand castings (like a Muncie case) through a WHEELABRATOR shot blasting system to remove casting flash and sand. On the other hand the SIDE COVER and TAILSHAFT & Z-28 type Valve Covers are dye cast with a Smooth Finish.....After Glassbeading to Clean I have found a business that has a Vibratory DeBurring Tumbler that generally uses either Ceramic OR Aluminum "shapes" to rub up against the part and along with a detergent cleaner makes the part new...If someone EMAILS me who can host my pictures I'll forward my examples.....Chuck Sharin