[camaro-69ss]

Here's my situation guys - my '69 starts most of the time, but sometimes not. It's been going on for a few months now - sometimes I'll turn the key, and nothing. The lights dim when I turn the key, but not even a click. So far, if i just wait and keep trying the key, it will eventually start. Tonight I tried some troubleshooting, cuz I figured one of these days it's going to leave me stranded. Here's what I found:

Using my remote starter clipped onto the solenoid, it will start every time.

At the ignition switch wiring at the bottom of the column, I'm getting 10 volts at the large purple wire

At the neutral safety switch I'm getting 9 volts.

At the solenoid I'm getting 7-8 volts.

So, I'm guessing the shape of the 36 year old wiring is hurting me - and I should go through it so I'm at a full 12 volts at the solenoid, but does this make sense that the lower voltage would result in intermittent starting problems like this? Sometimes it will go weeks with no problems, then one day it'll start giving me troubles again.

By the way it's behaving, I was thinking it was probably the solenoid, but I was putting off getting under there. The starter and solenoid were new about 5 years ago.

thoughts?

[JimM]

I very rarely suggest them, but with the tests you've run, adding a ford solenoid might do the trick. Otherwise, try a new ignition switch first.

[camaro-69ss]

I've heard of the Ford solenoid trick, but I don't know where/how it is installed. Can you give me the details on that?

[JimM]

I think there's info at madelectrical.com.

As I recall, you mount the ford solenoid somewhere on the right side, then run the battery cable to it, and another from it to where the original battery cable went on the starter. The purple wire goes to the trigger terminal on the ford solenoid, and you connect a jumper lead from the bat terminal to the s terminal on the gm solenoid.

Find the writeup at mad and double check me.

[Jimmybyrd]

Here's a link to the setup from our friends at Nova Resource. I'm using a 10 gauge wire from a button switch to the solenoid, gets me 12v every time. But this setup looks pretty trick, and if your battery is rear mounted you can put this setup under dashboard.

http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

Jim

[sneakey pete]

My understanding was the remote solenoid (relocation) is more for heat related problems do to headers etc. and for when car won't start when warm. My car does (did) the same thing until I mounted a remote push button to start as well. Don't like it this way, but because I hid the button (not in the ashtray but I like that idea) it is like a anti theft kind of thing. I pulled out my ignition switch thinking it might be the problem but no resistance in any of the start or run positions. Was told by an older and wiser friend that down in behind the fuse box where goes through the firewall they tend to have a resistance when they get this old and that is probably my problem. I am of the belief (just my spiddy senses) that I have a poor crimp down at the starter on the original wiring. I havn't been that ambitious to dig that deep yet. Has anyone found this to be a problem? I know of quite a few 1st gens and other GTO's in this age group with simular problem. Good luck in your hunt for the problem and be sure to let us know what you find. - barry

[67RS RAG]

Something to try that I struggled with for a few years that gave me intermintent problems every few months but of coarse at the wrong time, The horn relay was sticking. Try tapping it and see if you hit paydirt.

[HOTRODSRJ]

It sounds like you have voltage drops all over the place! And indeed age can play a part. But, start at the positive bus lead into the panel and ignition feed source. I would think you would see close to a full 12 volts at the ignition source/purple wire.

The Ford solenoid is a band aid for "heatsoak". I don't think it will help you here other than replace your old solenoid which is what I think the issue is.

I would actually try a new ignition switch and/or solenoid first. These do age and become more slow and sometimes intermittent. Mini-starter would be a better alternative to just the solenoid. These take far less current.

I suppose a good test would be to jump the battery post at the starter to see if it starts. This almost always indicates a solenoid issue.