[Go69]

Here is the deal: Recently rebuilt 383 stroker motor, with medium size solid lift roller cam. Holley 3310-4(? I believe-straight leg boosters, vac. sec., metering plate on both ends, power valve only in the primary side)

After working out some intake sealing issues that I had, I finally have the car at a point where it will start up reliably each time. Here is where my question comes from though.. It used to be that when I would start it up, I would have to keep pumping the gas pedal to keep it running, or hold the RPM's at a high idle for at least a minute or two until it would finally warm up a tad and then it would stay idling. Now mind you I have done nothing to the carburetor at all, but lately I can pump the pedal 2X, and then turn the key over and it will fire up and idle without problems. Now it idles around 1,100 RPM, and then slowly drops down to 950-1050 as it warms up.. I have completely removed the choke so there is no chance that this is an issue (milled choke horn/tower).

I don't see that there is a problem, but am concerned why the car would be acting differently when I have done nothing to warrant this. By the way, with open headers, and the XR288-HR10, this thing sounds mean! Next up: Exhaust system! American Thunder here I come!

[12run]

From my experience the idle on a chokeless carb should go up slightly as the engine warms up. It sounds like you might have a vacuum leak that slowly seals itself as the metal heats up and expands. Try spraying a little carb cleaner around the base of the carb and the intake ports when you first start it cold and see if the idle changes. You may still have some sealing issues.