[kamero68]

I'm wanting to try some adjustments to my SSM bars. My cars rear is lifting faster than the front and unloading the rear tires and is doing the hook-spin-hook dance. I'm thinking I could shim the front of the bars where they bolt to the spring perch which might cause the instant center(?) to move closer to the front of the car and give more lift to the front and tame some of the rear lift.

Eric68, Didnt you shim your bars to clear the spring straps? Where did you get the shims?

[ron498]

Perhaps you need to get the front end to lift easier? And further?
Not necessarily faster, but maybe that too.
Tell us about the front of the car. Shocks? Springs? A-arm bushings? Snubbers?
The front end is as important as the rear, and the timing between the two is critical....or so I've learned. And am learning.
Ron

[BigRed-L72]

Make sure you are not limiting out on the back shocks.
If the shocks go to full extension you`ll pick the back up losing traction.

Rancho adjustable shocks in the back work well.

[Eric68]

Originally Posted by BigRed-L72

Rancho adjustable shocks in the back work well.

Ditto, you need a good shock that can control the lift rate in the back. You need to tune the suspension so that the front lifts just a little faster than the back -- sounds like right now either the back is lifting too quick or the front is lifting too slow (or both).

I did put a 2* shim between the spring and lift bar to gain clearance. I got the shim from my local speed shop -- they had them on the shelf in the ricer-crap section.

[kamero68]

Yea, i agree that the front is not lifting as fast as the rear. That why I was thinking that a lower angle on the bars might try to lift a little more towards the front. I think it works that way with ladder bars and 4-links, you can move the instant center to different areas of the car to change the lift and squat "balance" on the car. But traction bars like the SSM may only lift at the point where they contact the car. I've been running boats for the last 20 years, this is the first time I've tried to dial in a car suspension in many years.

I have KYB shocks on the car, I bought some CE ajustables that I tried on the front set at 90/10, but I could not tell it lifted any more or faster than the KYBs. And the 60ft got worse slightly with CEs

Springs are original as far as I know, I didnt replace them when I restored the car. All the bushings are stock rubber type.

I've never concidered that the rear shock controlled the lift rate under power. I was just thinking the axle housing rotating up drove the lift bars into the spring perch and lifted the rear. I was looking for a way to change lift leverage rather than trying to control lift rate in the rear. I guess I'll order some Ranchos Monday. What was the part #? I think it was something like RS99115?

Anything else to look at?

Thanks for the help, with 1.8 60 fts and 7.29/99mph 1/8 mile, I feel I'm leaving alot of ET on the table.

[kamero68]

Well, I shimed the bars and moved the battery to the trunk and it helped. Last week I had a best 60ft of 1.777 and some as slow as 1.85, This weekend only had time for 2 passes, but went 1.710 and 1.691.
This also resulted in new best in 1/8 of 7.19 at 98.92, which is .1 quicker than previous best of 7.29 at 98.75

next weekend were going out to the 1/4 track which is normaly about .1 faster than our 1/8 mile track. I ordered the Ranchos this morning, so I should have them on by then too.

Also thinking about taking off the front sway bar, has that really helped anyones ET?

[Eric68]

Removing the front sway bar will help - it lets the front lift quicker