[ggkeller]

I haven't painted a car for 20 years. I used to use a siphon feed gun that I got pretty good at using Acrylic Enamel paint. Now I am restoring a '68 Camaro and I would like to paint it myself using a new Base/Clear coat system. However, my compressor is only rated at 8.8 SCFM at 40 psi. Most new HVLP Gravity guns need more air than that. But Sears does sell an HVLP Gravity Feed gun that is rated at 8.5 CFM at 40 psi. The problem is that the smallest tip available for it is 1.5 mm. Will I be able to use this gun for a nice looking base/clear system? Is that tip too big? What happens if the tip is too big? Can I compensate for a big tip by adjusting the pattern, the air, or holding the gun farther from the work? I've not used the new paint available today, so I would appreciate comments and suggestions from you experienced painters out there.
Thanks.

[JimM]

I haven't shot the bc/cc quite yet, but I've asked a similar question, and the pro's here have told me my old siphon feed gun will shoot this new paint just fine. What kinda shape is your old gun in?

[ragtopman]

The problem with the 1.5 is that your going to be throwing huge droplets out there vs. lets say a 1.3 where it will be breaking it up a whole lot more. I use a 1.3 for any color other than solids and no bigger than a 1.4 for clear depending on how think it is.

[HAD1NHS]

Your 1.5 cap will be a lot of material and not as atomized as it needs to be. With an HVLP the proper distance between air cap and panel is 6 inches with a 6 inch wide pattern with a 50% overlap. Don't get farther away with a wider panel, it will begin to cure before it gets to the panel and look like gravel guard. You may be able to do a nice job with the 1.5 (most clear guns used today are 1.3 or 1.4) but you will have to really move and rely on instincts vs. getting to watch what your doing.

[ggkeller]

Thanks everyone for the information. I think I'll keep looking for a gun with a 1.3 tip that may work with my compressor.

[shoddy_F-body]

Lowes sells an Ingersol Rand gravity gun that is 1.4.They sell an HVLP and a conventional. Go with a conventional if your worried about your compressor.

[BelAirBobs]

I use the Devilbiss "Plus" gun with the 1.3 tip for clear. It takes less air than HVLP, and is a cross between true HVLP and conventional. They are not cheap at $289, but are worth every penny. The finish lays down very smooth every time.

[67CAMAROSS]

i use a sata HVLP with a 1.3 tip but there not cheap at all there about $469.00 i use a cheap gun for primer

[MARTINSR]

The problem is the SATA, the Devilbiss and almost every other HVLP need MUCH more CFM, up to 15! It doesn't matter if you have 1.3-1.4 or what ever, it will NOT atomize the paint/clear if it doesn't have the CFM to back it.

If you don't plan on getting a bigger compressor get a Sharpe Platinum (7.5 CFM requirment) or a non HVLP gun like a good old Devilbiss JGA502 (thought of by many as the best gun ever made).

Here is one on Ebay (Click here) .

[ggkeller]

Thanks Brian, Can I ask another question. If I get a gun that requires 11 CFM but my compressor will only do about 9 CFM and the compressor I have has a 20 Gallon tank, will the air stored in the tank 'buy' me much paint time? Can I just paint a little slower, pausing for a minute between each panel to let the compressor catch up with the gun? Is it worth even considering using a higher CFM gun with smaller compressor? I've never used the base/clear paint and don't know how fast it dries or how fast you have to paint to keep it wet while you are moving to avoid 'dry' spots from overspray on the previous area when picking up where you left off if you pause between panels or sections of the car. Can you or other please give any advice about this approach?
Thanks,
Gregg

[MARTINSR]

It just doesn't work that way. It sounds good but in reality the compressor just can't keep up.

I have to tell you, there is nothing that will kill you more than having too little CFM with an HVLP gun. The paint/clear just doesn't atomize. It flys on to the panel in huge droplets. If you do get it on and the orange peel cut and buffed, it shrinks up later because of all the solvents trapped in it.

Having the proper CFM is really an important part. If you don't plan on a bigger compressor, I highly recommend a non-HVLP gun. You HAVE to have an HVLP gun, there a zillions of guys still shooting with non-HVLP.

[shoddy_F-body]

There is nothing wrong with a conventional gun for the hobbyist. I can actually get as good, if not better results with a conventional gun. I use a Sata RP with a 1.3 nozzle (about $400) at work.The RP is not a true HVLP but you still need some serious cfm. plenty of cfm at the shop.At home i use a conventional with my smaller compressor. Chances are the hobbyist is going to sand and buff his work so you really don't need the paint to lay out like perfect glass (although it would be nice)

[MARTINSR]

Heck, that JGA-502 lays paint about as smooth as any gun on the market. I literally bought my first house on money made painting using my old JGA-502. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[HAD1NHS]

A common problem regarding cfm and HVLP guns are that most people use Milton style quick couplers that reduce volume at the coupler to 3/8". If your HVLP gun requires 12-15 CFM it is not even possible through the restricted couplers. There are HVLP couplers available at the paint supply stores. There are a lot of people that cheat around this by setting regulator at handle 3,4 or 5 pounds higher then specs, but the gun does not work as designed. The only way you will get the 10 to 10.5 psi transfered to the air cap is by having specified volume to the gun.

[67CruiseMasterCamaro]

MartinSR, what is the required CFM for that Devilbiss JGA?