[Chris-in-Cali]

Hey guys ...
Need the help of the Pro's in here to I.D. my engines potential.
I bought my engine from a local shop that has been in business for a long time. They stand behind their work to the point where a 50,000 miles warrenty also came with the engine. Unfortunetly what didn't come with was the specifics. Compresion ratio .. redline .. etc.
Here's what I do know:
350 ... 4 bolt main ... double roller timing chain ... high vol. oil pump ... roller tip rockers ... Keith Black Hypereutectic Pistons ... Tri-cut three angle valve job ... 202/160 Valve Heads.
The Cam is from Crower: "HOT"
Intake 270* Lift .456
Exhaust 276* Lift .458
Edelbrock 600cfm
Hooker 1 5/8 headers
Flowmaster 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust with 40 series delta flow mufflers.
I'm "told" this combination should net me roughly 350hp and 400 lbs of tq.

Can any of the Pro's confirm this for me, maybe give me any other info I would be missing?

Thanks !!

[Chris-in-Cali]

wow ... nobody ???

[rojo]

No Pro here but I'd think it depends on the heads and comp ratio. If they're something that flows good then 350hp seems reasonible with the rest of the parts. If they're GM iron heads pull a valve cover and get the casting numbers for I.D. Also do a cranking compression test which would give a rough guess at the comp ratio.

[bravewink]

I'm with Rojo, it depends ALOT on the heads.

I think with an open chamber Chevy head you compression ratio will be around 9:1. I'd guess that would give you about 295 horsepower and 375 ft/lbs of torque.

I wouldn't shift much above 5200 RPM.

I had a similar combination and it's a real nice torque motor. You'll enjoy it.

[Chris-in-Cali]

Just called the engine shop.
They try to keep the compression ratio in this engine at 9.5:1
The heads are iron GM's with 202 / 160 valves that have been worked over.

[Vintage 68]

Originally Posted by Chris-in-Cali

Hey guys ...
Need the help of the Pro's in here to I.D. my engines potential.
I bought my engine from a local shop that has been in business for a long time.
I'm "told" this combination should net me roughly 350hp and 400 lbs of tq.

Thanks !!

I'll take a stab at this*
I'd say it will put out 250~255 - tops... Of course I'm no "professional"...
That's of course because this engine has 'screaming horsepower and near light speeds!!!' (wink) (wink) (wink) - he said, in low rumbling voice...
They don't "dyno" a thing - oh, that's right, no dyno in their shop.
Good warranty though - but, I hope it don't break on ya...

Seriously though - get it installed - have the 'ol a$$-O-Meter finely calibrated and then lean on it...
Does it feel like 350(+) HP?
Does it have to the torque to excite the rear tires? - 400(+) Flbs should help do that...

Yes, they've been in business for years - building stock motors. Some of the years of experience should transfer to performance builds - most doesn't...
I know someone that bought a "Vette Engine" (L-82) from them - he had some 'teething' issues with it and I finally was brought into the picture to get it straightened out - it performs well and runs good now...
Oh. BTW - just for the record GM's RPO-L82's don't have the piston/CR this engine had, nor the cam spec.s this engine had, not the head spec.s this engine had, nor the type of crank or rods this engine had and oh, it was a 70's truck block - not a 'vette suffix as he was promised - but the original price for a "Vette" engine was good...
I spent some time on the phone with her about this engine and a few other times trying to get info on other engines to get them straightened out - then came to several opinions about them. You should be able to "read" what those opinions are just in my reply...

There are some great performance engine building shops in the Bay & Sacramento Valey Areas - most of them have a dedicated staff to handle the work, can give you the EXACT spec.s the engine was built to via the build sheet and dyno results for that engine and they are there to assist you with final set-up, add on component sellection and tuning information.
When it comes to performance build-ups the old adage "you get what you pay for" is usually very correct.

* - As always JMHO's;
John

[Chris-in-Cali]

ha ha ha ha ...
Thanks John
Sounds like you know EXACTLY where the engine came from in "Dublin".
Unfortunetly even though I've only got 700 miles on the engine now, I've had it for 3 years. ( been a long process ). And your right, when I stand on it it does NOT feel like the tire melting monster I had seen in my dreams. And at 8 mpg around town ( as of the tank full today ) I know it needs some tuning.

Am I REALLY looking at 250 hp ???????
I'll "accidentally" blow this thing if that's the case.

[pdq67]

John's right here!!

I gotta say this up front here to help others out!!

Don't buy anything w/o a spec'ed guaranteed build sheet!

I don't care about power but rather you getting what you thought you were buying b/c you WON'T like it if you get into it and find out that you have a cheap generic cam, low compressioned big chambered reworked smog heads and so on and so forth!!

And the block being different than stated too!

pdq67

pS., fwiw, I bought new Merlin ovals instead of reworking my good -781's b/c I didn't like the Shop's, "Yes, we can do it, BUT, it's gonna take alotta time and money"!!

I felt like I was being told I was gonna get hosed regardless so I went new!

[Chris-in-Cali]

what do Flat Top pistons and 76cc heads with 202 valves get ya ?

[JimM]

about 8.5:1

[nick V]

Perfect for positive boost!!!!!

[Vintage 68]

Originally Posted by Chris-in-Cali

ha ha ha ha ...

Sounds like you know EXACTLY where the engine came from...

Am I REALLY looking at 250 hp ???????
I'll "accidentally" blow this thing if that's the case.

Hey Chris - do I "know" it's @250 - Nah, not really - that's just a 'gues-ta-mate' based on what I've seen for components in their engines and the output of one installed engine that was actually dyno (chassis) a few years ago as a base-line before we torn into it to improve it.
Anyone can take an off the shelf "Mr. GoodWrench" 350 and get almost 300HP/400Ftlbs out of it with a mild Intake, Cam change and a decent exhaust set-up - so we're not taking 'Rocket Surgery' to get a nice performance street engine here.

I don't think I'd bother to "accidentally" blow this thing" either...
I wouldn't hesitate to blow-it-apart with a set of wrenches though - just to see what's inside and go from there with a good street build.
The block is probably just fine - you don't have many hours on it yet.
The crank may be usuable as is.
The pistons could probably give you decent service life with street performance use if the CR is usuable.
The heads are likely near junk as far as HP potential goes. A good set of aftermarket performance heads would be the best place, along with a good cam change, to spend your money to perk this thing up some.
So if a tear-down shows the bottom end is serviceable spend your money on a cam, heads and intake/carb combo that suits your needs and go from there - not to much more money for some tire bruising fun

Hope this helps;
John