[Satatic]

Yes I searched, didn't find the specific answers I am looking for.

First off I ordered this windshield http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4621981357

Now I do not have any of the trim for around the front or rear windsheild. I have to install the windsheld and rear window. I do not like the idea of rain water in my car even if it is draining just fine. I would be using the butyl tape to set the window. I was thinking that because it doest get hard when I get the mouldings in the future if they didn't fit quite right I could use a little pressure and heat to move the windsheild. For now I would just make it perfectly centered in all the channels. After I get all the trim and stuff and fit it I would go around the windshields with seam sealer. Its just a money issue right now with the mouldings. I would love to be able to get a car and spend 5000 buying everything I need, but that will never happen in my lifetime.

Now what do I order to actually install the windshield? Clips? Lower stop brackets?

I took some pictures of the current state of my window channels and maybe someone can tell me what some things are for.


Holes along the bottom, 7 total, looks like there should be 8 but one must have gotten some bondo in it. Do I use these holes for the lower stop brackets?


On the piller in the channel. Looks like a T sticking off. Not sure what it is but there is one on each side.


Top channel is completely smooth.

As for the rear window, it is smooth all the way around. Nothing sticking out at all.

I prepped and painted all the channels so I'm not sure what the pinch welds are or where they are at.

[Blown69RS]

I'm putting my windshield/back glass in this coming week. I'm not at the same location as my car right now, but can take a guess at how many molding posts there are....

the "T" you mention sticking off of your pillar is a post for the molding clip. There should be approx. 4 of them on each pillar, and another 7 or 8 along the top. Same goes for the rear glass, should be 16-20 of them completely around the glass in the channel area. (numbers are approx. but close). Along the bottom of the front glass, the outside holes are for the windshield "stop" brackets, all the others are for molding clip retaining screws.

the posts are available at most places (Ricks, etc..). They "should" have been already on your car unless you replaced the pillars, roof, etc....

anyways, you'll need the posts, clips and stop brackets.

are you sure about using the butyl tape?? Most places will advise against it and suggest the urethane adhesive....

good luck.

[Satatic]

Ok so for a part list I need one of these
http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...tore.cfg+WM-29

Two of these
http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...tore.cfg+WM-21

One of these
http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...tore.cfg+WM-26

One of these
http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...tore.cfg+WM-28

One of these
http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...store.cfg+WM-7

And like 4 of these?
http://www.rickscamaros.com/cgi-loca...tore.cfg+WM-40

I am gonna have a bad headache now cause all my channels are smooth, thats how they came I simpley cleaned/sanded primed/painted them. Is there instructions on where all those studs need to go?

[reelmcoy]

Do not use the butyl for final installation. Chances are good it will leak and if you would be in a collision the glass can very easily pop out. Use a good urethane and the correct primers and the correct steps. Remember, urethane does not stick to anything but glass and urethane.

[go2fast]

Originally Posted by reelmcoy

Do not use the butyl for final installation. Chances are good it will leak and if you would be in a collision the glass can very easily pop out. Use a good urethane and the correct primers and the correct steps. Remember, urethane does not stick to anything but glass and urethane.

I respectfully disagree. Anything with an airbag needs urethane, but these cars should have butyl. It's technically correct and won't leak if installed correctly. It's easier for a first timer to get right too. It's also much easier to cut out if you need to remove it someday. And lastly, it's more forgiving for not perfectly level surfaces and raises the window to the correct level for the trim.

[Satatic]

After I get it installed and eventually get the trim/fit the trim, I will remove the trim and go around it with seam sealer like the "basics of basics" instructions. I just have to figure out where all the screws go for installing clips now.

[Ghostbuster]

I had to replace my windshield frame on my '68 convertible, and was concerned about how the glass would fit, prior to painting.
I called my local auto glass place, (Preferred Auto Glass) and they had the windshield in stock.
They came out the next day to do a "dry-fit".
All of my glass stops, chrome clips, cowl clips or screws were rusty or broken.

The guy was very nice.
He had the same stops in his truck, told me to take the remaing peices to a local glass shop distributor here in town.
(B-D Company)
They didn't use part numbers, but the girl was able to identically match all the peices I needed.
The prices was shocking, I got change back from a $10 dollar bill???

• ss screws = .12¢
• chrome clips = .21¢
• cowl clips = .27¢
• glass stops = .32¢

Monday, my glass guy came back to do what he said was a "wet-fit".
He used 3" strips of butyl, in the corners, couple on top and a couple on the base.
He said he was looking for "floaters", areas of the glass that lifted away, saying areas that float are prone to cracking or leaking.
He said that (ussually), he only uses butly on Fords, but that my Camaro originally came with butyl.
He suggested we (he) use butyl under my glass, and seal it with urethane to ensure no leaks.
He said the urethane would also help hold the chrome in place on sunny Colorado days.

He pulled the glass and out it back in his truck, tossed out the butyl, and said call me when it's painted.!
He said the glass was $125.00, $45.00 to install, and I haven't given them a dime yet.
(does anyone tip their glass guy??)
I was very impressed with their customer service.

Moderators - Can I use business names for local TC members?

[Blown69RS]

if you'd buy that list of stuff from Ricks, you will also need 1 of the WM-8 parts. ,,

other than that, your list looks complete.

[Satatic]

Ok since I will be puting in new screws with no reference to where the old ones were, can I just put them in evenly spaced or do they have to be in an exact spot?

[reelmcoy]

Originally Posted by go2fast

I respectfully disagree. Anything with an airbag needs urethane, but these cars should have butyl. It's technically correct and won't leak if installed correctly. It's easier for a first timer to get right too. It's also much easier to cut out if you need to remove it someday. And lastly, it's more forgiving for not perfectly level surfaces and raises the window to the correct level for the trim.

They used butyl back then because urethane did not exist. Butyl WILL dry up and leak, thats what it does. How is it easier for a first timer? If you can't get urethane to seal good luck with butyl. How is it more forgiving? Todays urethanes are heavy bodied and will hold the glass where it needs to be. But what do I know? I have only been doing glass work for 21 years.

[zdld17]

After you have your glass tape in , clips on, lower support tabs or blocks and your glass is beded in and mouldings on,,,, either now or later you will need a reveal moulding clip release tool, its something like a carpet knife but not that sharp... You can get these at most parts stores...Or get one from your glass man. It releases your moulding clip so you can pull your moulding back off. Sooner or later you will be trying to remove the moulding ,,, again.

[go2fast]

Originally Posted by reelmcoy

They used butyl back then because urethane did not exist. Butyl WILL dry up and leak, thats what it does. How is it easier for a first timer? If you can't get urethane to seal good luck with butyl. How is it more forgiving? Todays urethanes are heavy bodied and will hold the glass where it needs to be. But what do I know? I have only been doing glass work for 21 years.

Sorry, but I still respectfully disagree. Butyl does not "dry up and leak". I've taken lots of 30 y/o butyl off that's still pliable. I'm not saying urethane won't work, it's just not correct and there's nothing wrong with using butyl tape.

[Toby Keen]

I agree with go2fast. I've installed lots of windshields in the last 38 years and I've never had a butyl failure. Secondly, a first time installer wouldn't have the tools to even lay the urethane down (air driven gun).

[MrDanB]

Originally Posted by go2fast

Sorry, but I still respectfully disagree. Butyl does not "dry up and leak". I've taken lots of 30 y/o butyl off that's still pliable. I'm not saying urethane won't work, it's just not correct and there's nothing wrong with using butyl tape.

Actually, butyl is "technically incorrect"! GM did NOT use butyl tape on the windshields back in 67, 68, 69 on our first gens. They used thiakol (sp?) it is similar to butyl, but held the glass in better. Butyl has a tensile strength of something like peanut butter!! Urethane is so much better all the way around. The FMVSS (Fed standards) for auto glass states that urethane shall be used for installing windshields due to safety concerns. Alot of things were done differently in the 60's, that doesn't mean that it was smart to do I owned an auto glass company for years here in Washington. It is the installers responsibility to make sure that the glass does not leave the vehicle in the event of a collision... You can install the windshield any way you like, but at the end of the day, a triangular bead of urethane will outperform any butyl tape out there. If you find the right installer, and you already have the glass, he should install it for 50-100 bucks and guarantee his work. If you don't have the trim pieces or clips and he doesn't have to mess with all that, I would think 50 bucks for a decent install. Good luck with it!
Dano

[Satatic]

I would rather have the windsheild pop up then to smash my face into it.