[Stewie]

I have a 68 Camaro and the car has been painted for a couple of years previous to my ownership. The clear has little specs and bumps in it, that look like the clear had water or particles. Other than that, the paint is" cruise night" acceptable. I want to get rid of these imperfections but I am worried about causing more damage than good.
What can I do to fix this?
Also I am looking at buying an air powered buffer polisher, and I would like to hear recommendations. I am not too worried about price but it is only for home use. I was wondering what the pros and cons of these buffers are. Ingersol rand seems to have a few and Chicago. Are there more pads/polishers available for 7" or 8".
I have lots of time and would like to hear any and all comments.
Thanks in advance.

[Davisalmound]

Sand out the imperfections with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper (wet), I usually use a water bottle or spray bottle. Next you need some rubbing compound and a decent polisher. I use electric polishers, variable speed (do not use too much speed or you'll burn the paint, I use 1800-3000 rpm max and that's high). Either a Dewalt or Makita 7" style polisher will do the trick. After using the rubbing compound, use some polishing compound with a different pad to remove the swirls (again you do not need to use high speed). Practice on your daily driver first so you get the hang of it, and stay away from edges!

[firstgenaddict]

Go to ebay and type in cyclo orbital polisher... that is the one you want!
Trust me... it is impossible to burn through the paint... unless you held it in the same place for 5 minutes... then it would still be iffy as far as screwing it up.
You can use it to polish plexiglas... clear... if it can polish scratches from plex it can do ANYTHING!

[JimM]

Use the 2000 grit wet, REALLY REALLY wet. Start low to get a feel for it. Avoid sanding thru the clear at all costs. Sand back and forth, straight lines not in circles, using a small rubber pad (3" by 6" by 3/8" thick) that they sell just for this. Be real careful near edges and body lines.

The 2000 will get it like glass, and it will buff out in seconds. I also use a dewalt electric buffer. Thos orbital polishers are fine for waxing, but I've seem them cut clean thru the paint when used with compound by someone who was impatient and didn't know what he was doing.

Use real buffing compound, the stuff they sell everywhere in the littlke can is crap, way to coarse, will wreck your paint job. 3M perfect-it is good. Keep the speed down and always work "toward" an edge or body line.

[Stewie]

Hey guys thanks for the info. I am in the process of picking up a buffer. I will take your advice into consideration. I have hand polished a ten year old black paint job back to life one panel at a time so I know that slow and easy wins the race. But this is the first time I have had to deal with little bumps and humps in the paint, and my first base clear job. I was always aftraid to put sand to paint but I have polished metal with it and had great results.
Thanks again.

[Stewie]

Firstgenaddict: I just love the black Z. I had one back in 69 that started out rallye green but was painted black, and I had another Glacier blue that was painted black by the previous owner. My last 69 Z was a 32000 mile red on red unrestored original, but I had the original motor and trans. In a weak moment 3 years ago I sold it for a whopping 40k which was big money back then. Quick question. The Cyclo has two pads, what size are they and does that mean twice the cost for pads? Are the pads readily available?
Also I just wanted to let you know that I had an internet worm blocked when I was visiting your website.

[Bgonz 69]

Originally Posted by JimM

Use the 2000 grit wet, REALLY REALLY wet. Start low to get a feel for it. Avoid sanding thru the clear at all costs. Sand back and forth, straight lines not in circles, using a small rubber pad (3" by 6" by 3/8" thick) that they sell just for this. Be real careful near edges and body lines.

The 2000 will get it like glass, and it will buff out in seconds. I also use a dewalt electric buffer. Thos orbital polishers are fine for waxing, but I've seem them cut clean thru the paint when used with compound by someone who was impatient and didn't know what he was doing.

Use real buffing compound, the stuff they sell everywhere in the littlke can is crap, way to coarse, will wreck your paint job. 3M perfect-it is good. Keep the speed down and always work "toward" an edge or body line.

JimM is right on the money,but i would START sanding with 1000 grit first,then 1500,then finish it up with 2000. By starting with 1000 you get all the imperfections out easily and with more accuracy.By starting with 2000 its very difficult to remove the imperfections because the sandpaper has no grit.The paper kind of slides over the imperfections instead of cutting through them. I always start out with 1000 and finish with 1500/2000. And as JimM says it will buff out in seconds.

good luck


bob

[jet_car2000]

I use the 3M P 1200,,,260L production resin bond pre cut film on a Da and use it dry and then i just sand the little nibbs and then buff the whole car out with 3M compound with a varabile speed electric buffer,, hardly ever do i sand a whole car and like everyone esle has said be easy on the egdes

[Bgonz 69]

Originally Posted by jet_car2000

I use the 3M P 1200,,,260L production resin bond pre cut film on a Da and use it dry and then i just sand the little nibbs

I've been using a D/A for a while now, sure saves time on the flat panels

Not recommended for the beginners though.

bob

[jet_car2000]

I been using it for about 4 years now, and i use a wool pad 1st then i use a foam pad for finishing,,like i said i never sand a whole car if its slick i leave that area alone,,i might be wrong but i think after sanding and buffing it just dont hold its shine as well and has to be buffed more often,,I was showed this method by a guy that has been detailing cars for me for years and he showed me to use low air pressure and apply light pressure on the da as you sand with it,,It really works good and saves a lot of time over water sanding

[Stewie]

Whoa guys, hold on now you are talking to a complete novice, it sounds like Martian to me. Can you explain what you are doing in a little more detail. I am working on one car and I want to take my time and do a good job.

[jet_car2000]

Stewie sorry to confuse you,, the method i use is like Bob said not for the beginer,, do as Jim said and use 2000 wet grit paper with lots of water. Myself i dont sand the whole car just the areas that has the trash in it, then buff the whole car using 3m buffing compund with a 7in wool pad and then finish it with a foam pad,, then i wash the car good the compound will get places you would never think it would,, get it all cleaned up and then i hand appply the wax.. and i would not use a air powered buffer,, get a varabile speed electiric one and start slow as has been said you will get the feel for it the more you do it..sorry again too get you confused,,, Frank

[firstgenaddict]

If I am doing a high end paint job I sand the whole car with 2000 in order to get the paint so smooth that it looks like a mirror. Even if there is very little trash I go over every inch of the car with various blocks and then use a rotary polisher with 3M finese it II, then orbital with swirl remover, then onto show car glaze by hand, followed by a high quality carnuba paste wax applied by hand as well.

It may seem like alot of work, but it is the only way I have found to get it to hold the gloss. When you run the back of your hand on the car it feels like glass.

[Stewie]

Thanks for the help guys. I am sure I will be able to clean this up. I am thinking of getting a variable speed electric polisher. The Porter Cable 7424, or I might even spring for the cyclo dual head. The makita 9227 looks like a good option because of its low to high speed capabilities. I will start slow and work slowly. I retired early so I have all winter to fix it. I will probably have to do the whole car because the spots are pretty well distribute around the car. Another quick question. I am planning a trip to the US next week. Can you tell me what large retailers would stock the PC or the Makita. I have tried Home Depot, Sears, and our CTC up here but they only have the cheaper 10 inch ones.
I have been doing research on the net for the past couple of days and it seems that 3M is one of the better supplier of products to do this job. What are your recommendations for poilishing/Waxing.
By the way this is a great forum for getting really good info, and I appreciate all your help, and I am psyched to try it.
Actually I re read the posts and there are a lot of recommendations for products. What Carnuba do you use?

[Bgonz 69]

You guys dont like to sand with 1000 then go to 1500 then finish it off with 2000 ????? I've always done this and it saves a lot of time,and all the little dirt and imperfections sand out real nice with the 1000 grit.I can never sand anything flat with the 2000 grit.It just kinda glides over it,and when you buff up the shine you see a little lump. I have to sand and buff a chevelle i just painted and i'm not looking foward to it.My back hurts just from the thought.


bob