[marty69212]

does anyne besides air ride make a triangulated four link rear that works with dse mini tubs. that you dont have to cut out all of your floor?

[Dan Schoenecker]

I may be wrong, but I think both the Morrison and Alston units go in without any floor cutting.

[JV69z/28rs]

Heidts and TCI also make rear 4 bars that require no cutting - "bolt in". Just keep in mind that there are compromises in performance with these set ups so there is no floor cutting. As far a 4 links go the DSE set up is suppose to be the best performer but there is cutting into the floor and rear seat modification involved.

[halfast]

Love the way the Morrison 4 link handles!!! see: http://hotrodders.com/forum/journal....ge=1&reverse=1

[Dayton68Z28]

Alston makes both a bolt/on and weld 4 link.

[Mark SC&C]

Triangulated 4 links can be set up to work pretty well but if performance is your primary goal you`d be better off with a 4 link using a panhard bar for lateral axle location. The DSE is set up for handling and is technically more of a 4 bar (parallel links in side view) than a 4 link. Better roll steer and an absolute minimum of binding but very little if any anti squat to plant the tires on a hard launch. The Heidts system is actually very well thought out. Almost suprising for a street rod outfit. I talked to Gary Heidt about it at SEMA and they seemed to have put a lot of thought into it. I like the PHB height and length and it`s got additional holes that allow you to increase the antisquat. Yes, the upper links are relatively short but certainly no shorter than the upper links on a Chevelle are in side view. I`d sooner have the antisquat and let the pinion angle change a little more personally. My biggest gripes with it are the use of poly bushings (non greasable if I recall) throughout,no provisions for a rear swaybar and the lower arms could be a little more beefy. The TCI system has a rear swaybar (although they couldn`t tell me what the rate was) but uses a diagonal locator bar rather than a PHB. That`s fine for a drag car but for handling is gives a very low rear roll center and binds when the axle articulates.
The Morrison packages I`ve seen as recently as this years SEMA are all cut and weld in affairs with their own frame rails. Their triangulated setup is better than most. They`ve lowered the RC height to the centerline of the axle tubes and reduced the convergence angle of the upper arms to reduce binding.
Alston makes some neat stuff including a rear clip with billet aluminum arms with greasable delrin race spherical bearings and rear swaybar but again they are all cut/weld in AFAIK (I`m an Alston dealer BTW). BTW they make the AirBar triangulated link setup for ART.
IMHO you`d be just as well or better off using a set of DSE,GW or Hotchkis rear leaf springs (with matching fronts) and a good set of adj. shocks all the way around. If you haven`t already made some geometry improvements up front (I don`t just mean a set of tubular arms that don`t do anything but add + caster) that`s much more important for best performance that replacing the rear leafs. Mark SC&C

[Mr. B]

Mark,

What would you suggest for front suspension upgrades?

[Mark SC&C]

With something like a G-Bar rear suspension? Naturally a matching Alston front subframe is a great match as they were designed to work together. If you don`t want to get that carried away I`d use our StreetComp-AFX package with the tall aluminum spindles. It`s got great geometry,saves weight and takes C5/C6 compatible brakes. Baer also has a nice 13" GT package for those spindles that`s $700 less than the similar package for stock spindles and uses larger calipers too. You could round it out with a set of Eiback front springs and Varishock adj. shocks to match the coilovers out back or upgrade to QS2 coilovers in front. If you want to use stock spindles (maybe you`ve already got big brakes you`re happy with) you can get similar geometry/performance gains with the Stage 2-Plus package or a combination of a Stage 2 and the G mod.
There`s a LOT of different ways to go depending on budget and intended use. The good (and bad) thing is that the front end design of these cars (and a lot of others from that era) are so poorly designed that it`s easy to make huge gains. Mark SC&C

[MStennes]

Another rear suspension you left out is Lateral Dynamics 3 link, yes it requires allot od mods but it cant be beat. I dont see any more rear seat mods though than DSE's Quadra. You do have to cut the rear out more though. I do agree with Mark though unless your making a track car save your money and time and go with a GOOD set of rear springs, I like GW's Cat 5's Also look into mini tubbing that way you can get a good sized rear tire under you. I have delt with Tyler at ATS and he will answer all your questions and steer (pun intended) you the way you need to go, he will save you money and time plus when your done you will be where you want to be.