[Vegas69]

I am looking at around 600lbft in my 69 camaro when its complete. At what point do I need to install a 4 point cage for strength. I am installing the DSE connectors and tub kit. If someone has twisted their car how much power did it take? Probably will never see the strip.

[DjD]

If the car doesn't hook up then you really won't have any really bad problems... With that kind of power the cage should be on the list as a safety item if you planned on driving the car...

[CDJr]

Are those SFC's weld-ins or bolt-ins? I hope you say weld-ins

[Dayton68Z28]

You probably won't gain too much more rigidity with a cage. Cage will help a little. Cage is more of a safety item.
All that torque and never a pass at the 1/4?? Say it ain't so.

[HarleyD67]

In a coupe with that power run one for safety. But the rule book says 11.49 sec or quicker or any speed over 135mph or faster. The roll bar is looking good. Are you just putting in the bar or a full cage. As far as twisting goes do you plan on putting on slicks or just street rubber?

[davidpozzi]

A cage in a first gen will likely put your head within striking distance of the side tube above the door. You might want to just go with a roll bar and not a full cage unless you plan on wearing a helmet all the time.
David

[Vegas69]

Thanks for the quick replies. It will just have street tires 335 series. I should have said roll bar. The DSE roll bar has a detachable bar behind the front seats. I was thinking I could put some better seats an belts in if I went that way. My main concern is twisting the car though. The sub frame connectors are weld in by the way.

[Dayton68Z28]

Vegas,

Like David said, roll bar. Not a cage. I did a removeable cross bar/side bars.
I'm running 335's also with subframe connectors.

[HarleyD67]

IMO Dayton has a good example of a 6 point roll bar. Very good on the street. Safe and good for stiffening the chassis. May not be NHRA legal, but very street friendly.

[Blade]

Originally Posted by davidpozzi

A cage in a first gen will likely put your head within striking distance of the side tube above the door. You might want to just go with a roll bar and not a full cage unless you plan on wearing a helmet all the time.
David

or if ur short u will be fine!

[67ragtp]

You will not twist that car, as long as you install the dse frame connectors, weld them as instructed along the floors at the rear rail and rear of the sub frame with the supplied plates. Not to mention the fact that you are going to shred those tires with 600ftlbs. I just finished doing this to my car, its got 315's in it with 550ftlbs and the tires roast from 1st through 3rd.

Also if you are doing the mini tubs I assume you are welding in there shock tower. If any of you guys have seen it, its a squared off U-shaped length of 1/8" steel that spans from frame rail to frame rail and its extremely structural.

Dont even give the twist another thought, it aint happening. The removable cross bar is a nice feature to the roll bar especially if you want fasten the shoulder harnesses for added safety. Im trying to figure out a nice way to fasten the shoulder harnesses with out having a roll bar, its a no-no to pull those belts from the floor up. I have the cut outs in the seat, but guess I would have to pull a belt from the rear package tray forward or somewhere in that area. No real clean install with out a bar behind the seat.

Rich

[Marktat]

I installed a 6-point roll bar kit in my 67 convertible and like the look and added rigidity. I installed it to permit use of shoulder belts, increase rigidity and increase general safety. Nobody appears to make a convertible kit so I took a chance on JEG’s Camaro coupe kit (it fits nice in Boodleproof’s coupe). The main hoop fit great and I used these generic Jegster front bars which also worked well.

The back bars needed custom bending to fit along the side of the back seat, the back seat upright will need a little tweaking to fit. I wanted to keep the back seat functional so I used a Chris Alston removable bar kit for the crossbar.


The install was inspired by NHRA rules but will not pass NHRA tech due to the removable crossbar and Jegster front bars. The floor plates were the biggest hassle and needed lots of fabrication to look good at the floor.

I’m amazed how stiff the old convertible feels now. I think 6-points would add much stiffness over a 4 point.

[69RS-Yenko]

Markrat, that is the type of cage I have in my 69 RS/SS, I love the set up easy to get in & out as well as not having to take the door bar out when you want to just drive. I put a cage in mine just because. Because being if you want to play & walk away from a screw up just do it. If the next owner wants to remove the cage that is not a hard task and by the way the next owner will have to do it so don't sweat it. I'd rather be safe than sore & sorry. I've had a bad flip at Road Atlanta years back and from that point on I will always have a cage of some sort, even in a street car. You may get a few weird looks at the shows but at least you will have the peice of mind that if that wreck ever happens you'll be way better off.

[Vegas69]

Great info. I think I will still go with the DSE roll bar for safety and a little extra rigity incase I decide I want to make a run down the strip or add more power later. I feel confident with the DSE weld in sub frame connectors and shock tower bar along with the roll bar that it should be nice and stiff.

[Silver69Camaro]

Originally Posted by Matts01ES

or if ur short u will be fine!

Don't think so! Your body will stretch (as will the belts too) in some funny ways to make your head go in place you'd never thought possible in an accident.