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| Team Camaro Tech Current Topic: Flickering dash lights | ||
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| Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical. |
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#1
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Hi Gentlemen
does anyone know the cause for flickering dash and interior lights at idle? it seems to go away after the car has been warmed up and is operating at a higher RPM i have a 69 camaro RS/SS.console with gauge package. it still has the original alternator. regulator is new. any ideas? thanks
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69 Camaro RS/SS 350.<br />GM 2.02 angle plug heads.<br />223 dur/480 lift hyd cam.<br />69 z/28 alum high rise.<br />69 z/28 780 vac sec holly carb.<br />4 bolt mains,steel crank,forged flat top pistons.<br />Turbo 350 2800 stall with shift kit.<br />3:73 12 bolt posi.<br />functional ZL2 cowl induction hood<br />gear vender O.D.<br />13.2 in the 1/4 with slicks and open headers
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#2
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it is most likely the voltage regulator doing its job. the volt reg on my 1969 does the same thing.it regulates,but only at about 30 cycles which is very easy for the human eye to see flicker. as you increase the rpm the flicker goes away.
i have found this out bt doing all the troubleshooting. many hours.i cleaned all my grounds. changed the regulator to a new one. i opened the new reg and was surprised to find points.i thought it would be entirely electronic. i would imagine an electronic unit would cycle more efectively and eliminate the flicker. do this......... disconnect the batt, remove the reg cover.restart the car. have a partner look at the interior lights as you close the regulator points momentarily.( a few secs only!) if the lights remain steady then its the regulator. if they dont then its another continuity issue. |
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#3
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Thanks Wagonman
![]() ill check it out.........
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69 Camaro RS/SS 350.<br />GM 2.02 angle plug heads.<br />223 dur/480 lift hyd cam.<br />69 z/28 alum high rise.<br />69 z/28 780 vac sec holly carb.<br />4 bolt mains,steel crank,forged flat top pistons.<br />Turbo 350 2800 stall with shift kit.<br />3:73 12 bolt posi.<br />functional ZL2 cowl induction hood<br />gear vender O.D.<br />13.2 in the 1/4 with slicks and open headers
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#4
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also go buy the electronic version of the regulator made by Wels #715 it fits inside the standard regulator box and is cheap, around $15 and works like a champ and evens out the spikes you might be seeing.
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Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r "There will come a time when you believe everything is finished, That will be the beginning." Louis L'Amour Photos for viewing Learn How To Post Pics here |
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#5
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Click
where in canada can i get the electronic version of the regulator? what is "wels", a parts store? any of you canadians out there... maybe you can help me? if i go this route, does the stock wiring hook back up? thanks
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69 Camaro RS/SS 350.<br />GM 2.02 angle plug heads.<br />223 dur/480 lift hyd cam.<br />69 z/28 alum high rise.<br />69 z/28 780 vac sec holly carb.<br />4 bolt mains,steel crank,forged flat top pistons.<br />Turbo 350 2800 stall with shift kit.<br />3:73 12 bolt posi.<br />functional ZL2 cowl induction hood<br />gear vender O.D.<br />13.2 in the 1/4 with slicks and open headers
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#6
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Wells/Duralast P/N VR715 is the electronic version. Can be bought at most any parts store, NAPA, AuotZone, Advance.
Plug & Play regulator with stock harness. Your mechanical regulator needs the spring lengthen inside to increase voltage.
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Give a man a rescued dog for the health of his soul. Two little words - Yes and No - require the most thought. Other stuff: http://www.flickr.com/photos/everettwn68 |
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#7
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ok..........got an electronic regulator. its way lighter than the Stock GM one.
i switched them but took Voltage readings at the battery at idle for each one before i changed them. the stock GM regulator was reading from 15.5 volts to 16.1 volts. the new electronic regulator was reading from 14.7 to 14.82 volts. unfortunatly i still have a flicker in my dome light and dash lights!!! looks like it might be better tho?could this be a grounding issue? where are the grounds i should be checking? signed....Depressed
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69 Camaro RS/SS 350.<br />GM 2.02 angle plug heads.<br />223 dur/480 lift hyd cam.<br />69 z/28 alum high rise.<br />69 z/28 780 vac sec holly carb.<br />4 bolt mains,steel crank,forged flat top pistons.<br />Turbo 350 2800 stall with shift kit.<br />3:73 12 bolt posi.<br />functional ZL2 cowl induction hood<br />gear vender O.D.<br />13.2 in the 1/4 with slicks and open headers
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#8
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Yes, better, you 've gone from 0.6 volt to 0.1 volt. Just faster control compared from the mech VR to electronic VR.
Go to the BAT terminal of alt and measure voltage - should be steady. Make sure alt case and VR chassis are grounded and have less than 1 ohm of resistance between them. Remove neg battery cable and wire brush all items at the battery pos junction block and at the horn relay buss bar. Remove the junction block to ensure no rust between the block and radiator support. Ensure the ground straps from the firewall to engine block/valve cover bolt(s) have good contact, less than 1 ohm resistance between firewall and block, not just the strap itself, but from the sheet metal to a point - alt case - on the block. The dash, or instrument cluster, has a ground at the top of the cluster to the dash for ground. Since the dome light is flickering, I suspect the inst cluster ground is okay. Ensure the firewall connector, the one with the large gauge red wire from the horn relay, especially the red wire, is making good contact with its receptacle. Move battery ground from alum head/alt bracket to block, if equipped. You also might remove fuses one at a time while viewing charging voltage. Dome light flicker with headlights off? You also might try another battery. I suggest this because the charging voltage is high. As a battery is used, it heats up and less charging voltage is needed. Battery charger for a couple hours? Doesn't hurt.
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Give a man a rescued dog for the health of his soul. Two little words - Yes and No - require the most thought. Other stuff: http://www.flickr.com/photos/everettwn68 |
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