Both left and right hand side frame rails fit incredibly well. They basically slid right into place, with the only issue being a slight gap that needed to be taken up between the trunk floor and the frame rails. They are thicker than stock (convertible spec, if I remember correctly) and have all the proper holes drilled.
The only downside to these is not actually product related, but related to the task of frame rail replacement. It is imperative that they are installed according to the Fisher body specifications to ensure proper body and suspension geometry.
Rating: 10
Product Details: "1968-1969 Full Length Frame Rails" by WildBillyT - posted products and: - Rating: 9.33
Last Review Posted by WildBillyT - posted products and: Thu August 17, 2006 6:52pm
The trunk floor is very complete, it has just about everything you need for the trunk area except for the drop offs to the quarter panel. Fit was excellent, but in order to install this you need to either have the tail panel or rear frame rails removed as it is too large to install any other way. You will have to seperate your old trunk floor from your passenger compartment floor, both inner wheel wells, quarter panel drop offs, and tail panel. Installation is an agressive project.
However, in spite of the fact that it's a lot of work, it is a very nice piece and greatly simplifies trunk restoration.
It is made to work with both coupes and convertibles as it has mounts for convertible vibration dampers (aka cocktail shakers)
Rating: 8
Product Details: "1969 Full Trunk Floor" by WildBillyT - posted products and: - Rating: 8.00
Last Review Posted by WildBillyT - posted products and: Wed October 12, 2005 4:14am
I bought one of these at a Super Chevy Show to avoid having to pay the expensive freight rates.
I found it to be a good fit. It needed some minor tweaking to fit perfectly but that's to be expected. Most notably, the trans tunnel needed some shaping to fit properly. I was happy to see that it includes the caged nuts for subframe mounting, seatbelt mount nuts, rear seat bottom anchor hooks, and front leaf reinforcements (or torque boxes to some).
For heavily rusted cars that need a new floor, I'd say that this is the only way to go. I have done partial floors in the past and this makes the process much easier and cleaner.
I found this book to be very informative about chassis design and tuning. It has a lot of information and as such can be a little confusing at times. Nevertheless, I found it to be quite useful in understanding how different chassis setups work.
Rating: 8
Product Details: "by Herb Adams" by team_camaro - posted products and: - Rating: 8.00
Last Review Posted by WildBillyT - posted products and: Wed October 12, 2005 4:00am
I bought this book when I first started welding. It explained a lot of the basics about different types of welding and provided great info as I got more familiar with the processes. I'd recommend it for anyone getting started with welding.
Rating: 9
Product Details: "by Richard Finch" by team_camaro - posted products and: - Rating: 9.00
Last Review Posted by WildBillyT - posted products and: Thu September 8, 2005 4:40pm
My copy of this book has a different cover, I believe it is more recent as I bought it about a year ago.
There is a lot of great information contained in it. Wilson does a good job breaking down the engine rebuild process, starting from removal all the way through to first firing. There is also a good amount of data regarding the identification of factory parts.
However, the information is copyrighted in 1983 so certain processes and parts are not mentioned. For example, hypereutectic pistons are absent, as are roller camshafts.
Overall I'd say this is a good book for use as a reference during engine rebuilding, however I'd look elsewhere when making parts selections.
Rating: 8
Product Details: "by Tom Wilson" by team_camaro - posted products and: - Rating: 8.00
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