Installing a new (tank to pump) fuel line. HOW!!!? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 21st, 01, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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I cant get the line to go back in, and i couldnt get the old line out without breaking it, am i going to have to remove the engine or something so i have clearance to wind it in there. also its looking like i have to remove the e brake cables too???


btw, i had no problems re straightening the lines, that was cake, should i have installed the front part before straightening or something. HELP.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 21st, 01, 05:43 PM
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You may not want to hear this but I had to drop my subframe when I did mine ('68 Big Block).

That was the only way I could get it to go in without mangling it up.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 01, 02:02 AM
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I replaced mine without too much trouble on a 69 396 with 2 fuel lines. I may have had to redo 1 bend, I can't remember, it was about 2 years ago. It only took about 1 or 2 hours. I didn't have to disconnect emergency brakes or anything. I worked them in from the back forward, I think the only problem was near the subframe, but if it was a bit** I would have remembered.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 01, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
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I dont beleive that you didnt have troubles at all. i mean, if you didnt great. but ive spent 3 hours tryin, and cant. im getting very angry, so i was thinking. could i cut em and somehow butt em back together with fittings or flare em and what not. HELP.

ive got the engine in the car, axle on, and everything. im pretty sure that if i pulled the engine, dropped the axle i would be able to put em in ok. but thats a load of work just to get fuel lines in. come on guys. i need help. i cant be the only person who has ever had problems.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 01, 06:00 AM
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I didn't have many problems either...

What I did was feed it in from the backside by the tank. First I laid the new line out on the floor and just looked at where it needed to go and to be. That one spot where it goes between the front subframe and wheel well up front is tricky.

So, I just fed it forward and kept twisting until I got it up to that tricky spot. I then went up there and had to put some force on it to get it in there (took me two tries). I also had to change the bend slightly (This line was from Ricks for a 327. I am very pleased with it.). After I got it in that spot I did some final adjusting and it was in. Fit into every clip. Overall, it only took about 20 minutes. Sorry yours is turning out to be such a problem. Hope you get it sinched and maybe that this messege will help. Good luck.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 01, 11:56 AM
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Here's what you do (on a 69 anyway , but I'm sure 7 & 8 are the same.

You already have the line straightened . Jack up the car all the way around and put 4 jack stands as high as you can , or at least so you can lay on a creeper and have about 4 inches from your chest to the lowest point. Take the Pass. rear subframe bolt ALL THE WAY OUT , don't worry nothing will drop and you WILL be able to get the bolt back in. Lay the fuel line next to the car right under the rocker , take the front part where it wraps over the frame rail and slip that over the end of the subframe and slide it all the way up to right behind the front subframe mount. Now that's done. Now go back and bend the line slightly (at exactly where you straightened the 180 out of it) this will allow you to slip the end up over the rearend , once you get it over the rear end start straightening it back again , just get it close to where it looks like it'll start hitting the mounting clips. Now SRART AT THE REAR and put the little bracket with the square hole in it back on this will locate the legnth of where it needs to be. Also at this point you can see that the end of the line is a straight shoot to the sending unit line. Now start putting your clamps on and fitting it as you go forward , leave them loose after you get the bolts started in them. Work your way forward fitting and slightly bending as you go , when you get to the front it'll be perfect. Take your jack and jack the subframe back up a little if the bolt won't start , and run it in tight.

Put your clamps on and go for a drive.

Piece o cake.....

(Don't loosen ANY of the other subframe bolts except the Pass. rear)

Good Luck

69 Daytona Yellow / Yellow Houndstooth , 350 , 4 speed , air , convertible !!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 01, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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thank you guys so much, i think that wil help, i think one of my problems is that im using a hydrolic lift that is VERY in the way. thanks again. ill put it on jack stands later this week and let you guys know. this is the final straw, if it doesnt work. im going to flare em at the point where its on the outer frame rail and just use some fittings. but i think with the help just given i can get em in. thanks again.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 01, 01:11 PM
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I got mine off the way RSSS69Conv is talking about, not much trouble, just a little tricky at the front, but not too bad.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 01, 08:48 AM
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I had no trouble at all on my 69 SB. It took about 20 minutes to remove the old and install the new. The car was assembled and we jacked up the passenger side to get a little more room to work with.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 01, 11:06 AM
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I cheated on mine. I cut the tubing between where it comes over the top of the front clip and where it runs along the side of the frame on the front clip. I put a swagelok 3/8" sst union in the line (part# ss-600-6)
and connected the tubing together. With this style of fitting you don't need to flare the lines. This area is hidden from site and I felt if someone found the fitting good for them cause I sure the hell couldn't get the tubing in my 68 396.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 01, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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got em, i'm retarded, did it on a lift, and i was trying to get em in backwards last time. i dont know. hey, if it were a thirdgen, i wouldnt have any problems.

im learning.
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