Make shure your distributor has a good advance curve first.
Then check float levels and idle mixture.
Then the base setting for the accelerator pump is to open the throttle all the way and check for .020" added movement of the accelerator pump lever against the screw with the spring on it. You don't want the lever to bottom out before the throttle is all the way open. If it bottoms out, it will start compressing the spring. If you have any clearance between spring and lever when at idle, the accelerator pump will not begin to squirt fuel soon enough.
Adjust the screw if it's off.
In tuning it you can change two things:
volume and duration.
If you increase the squirter nozzle size giving more fuel sooner, the pump will reach the end of it's stroke sooner.
So you need to determine exactly when you are having the problem.
If it bogs right off idle, go bigger on the squirter size.
If it goes a while and then bogs, it may actually need a smaller jet to increase the duration.
There are different plastic cams too but I have not fooled with them.
I really need to emphasize that you need the ignition and basic carb adjustments sorted out first, with good plugs, wires, etc.
Then you can start tinkering with the accelerator pump system.
Also make shure the engine and carb are up to temp before tuning it. I've seen Holley carbs need a re adjustment to mixture screws after driving the car about 10 miles. The manifold and carb heats up and the fuel vaporizes more easily and the carb runs a little richer than first was adjusted at home.
Check my web page for suspension info:
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer