liquid VS. elastometer harmonic dampers - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 01, 06:39 AM Thread Starter
dm
 
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hi everyone,

i'm in the market for a harmonic damper...

The only reason i'm looking into one is because the one on my 396 BB looks pretty beat up (it almost looks like it was hammered in at some point)

anyway... i'm considering one of two:

1. an ATI damper (elastometer type)
2. or fluidampr (fluid type)

is there a big advantage going with a fluid type as opposed to the more conventional elastometer type???

i will be using my engine for street as well as the occasional strip on the weekends.

i would appreciate any experience/suggestions or opinions on the subject matter.

thanks

dm
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 01, 07:35 AM
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I'd go for fluid, no "moving" parts and no elastomer to dry rot.

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 01, 08:04 AM
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fluid damper's have been traced to the breakage of the front nose off crank's. scat dose not recomend them anymore. i would go with the stock type blancer as it work's well and is not too expensive.

the breakage is mainly in BB motor's. cast or forged crank make's no diferance. the vast majority of racer's have stoped useing fluid damper's too, this should speak for it self. they only realy help after about 6 or 7 grand. also the fluid has a tendiansy to stick in the wrong spot after storage or long use. the heat and stuff make it get thiker and stay in the wrong spot causeing breakage of the crank snout.

if you realy like the look of a fluid damper just get a cover for your regular damper, it look's like a fluid damper and it work's just fine.

IMHO i will never use one. there has been too much breakage and bad stories about them in last few year's. and the cost outway's the benifit's, if any for me. a street motor is not runing at 6000+ RPM all the time. most of the time it is the 1500 to 3500 RPM range. the stock damper work's great at this RPM and the ocasinal run at 6000+ RPM dose not hurt it.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 01, 09:24 AM
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For a mostly street engine I would sure suggest just obtaining a new stock type. The money for a fluid/ati/rattler etc...type is sure prohibitive. I just purchased a new stock type, improved Summit racing one for about $70. Made from nodular stock I believe and better elastomer, says "Pro Street" milled into it. Then I slipped a PRO-FORM black degreed cover over it ($29) degreed every 90 for valve adjustment and wont slip like a stocker! Looks great and less than a $100 total! I can e-mail or post a link to a pick of it together on my engine if you want, just e-mail me.
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