Firewall/fenderwell painting - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 00, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Ga. USA
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Question

I have my engine out and I am in the process
of cleaning and repainting the engine compartment. Should I buy a gun and compressor or can I expect good results which will last with spray can painting? I
would like to hear what results others have
had and suggestions.....thanks
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 00, 07:42 PM
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I just finished painting my engine compartment during restoration, and had fantastic results with spray cans. Krylon, and Plasticoat brands are excellent for this, and have a good selection of the correct looking colors. (I personaly like plasticoat the best). Semi-flat black is a very close factory color match for the firewall, inner fenders, etc. Low-gloss black engine paint, (500 degree), has just a bit more gloss, and I used it to paint the heater box, horns, engine fan and pulleys. Used gloss black on the wiper motor. Turned out nice. Years ago, I used Chevy reconditioning paint, but can't get it anymore in spray cans. I think you can still get it for spray gun use in a gallon container maybe. I also used rebuilder gray spray on the hood hinges and hood latch with very good results. The key to really making it look nice is to be sure the metal parts are clean and smooth. If you have paint buildup from previous spray jobs like I did, you will probably want to sand or strip the old paint off, and get down to the metal, since any flaws will really show up under the black paint. One other tip. The more parts you can take off and disassemble the better.
Hope this all helps.

[This message has been edited by Peace69Z/28 (edited 03-13-2000).]
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 12:19 AM
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Bruce
 
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bob,
even though i have a compressor and spray gun, i liked using the spray can. i used a krylon #1613, i believe, semi-flat, and it looks great. i also used it to black out my rear tail light panel on my 69. a friend of mine used the factory black paint and if you ask me, the krylon vs. factory, there isn't much difference. i agree with what Peace69Z/28 said, if you want a good job, strip the metal down. i like using a sand blaster. some strippers will leave a chemical film and then you have to get a etching compound to clean it off correctly.
good luck,
bruce
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 01:32 AM
 
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I just finished the bottom and engine compartment of my 67. I used a satin black enamel from the paint store. Used my compressor and spray gun. The main reason is durability. Drop some gas or brake fluid on can spray paint and it will peel off. There isn't much difference in the cost either. I think the cans are great for touch up for a show.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 03:03 AM
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I used spray bombs on the engine compartment of my El Camino. It looks good. I like Dupli-Color Semi Gloss black. I painted it next to some original factory black on the firewall, it is very close to the orginal color. You can certainly not tell just by looking. I too have heard good things about plasti-cote and I like plasti-cote for painting engines.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 05:17 AM
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Has anyone tried the semi-gloss POR-15? Spraying would be the way to go in an engine compartment but proper safety must be followed (respirators, masking, etc.) Their other products are tough as nails.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 06:20 AM
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I used the POR-15 on the inner fenders, frame etc and top coated with chassisblack spray paint I ordered from Ground Up. The POR 15 is really tough!! I recommend putting it on very thin and make sure you use gloves or you will be black for weeks.
My guess is on any given day, the guys at the factory mixed the semi flat a little different so almost any semi flat should be acceptable in color. Besides ordering the special paints offered by the Camaro parts houses, I have also used Krylon 1613 with nice results.
Question for PEACE, where do I get the Chev. reconditioning paint? I would like to do my hood springs as you mentioned. Also, should I prime with anything or just spray?
Has anyone noticed letters/numbers on the firewall? Mine has a big RX2 handwritten on there. Don't know what it means, but it's there.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 06:25 AM
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The POR 15 works great and is tough, but it's also tough to get off your skin! I'm trying to salvage my passenger inner fender(rust under battery tray area) and I've got 2 coats on and sanded down, but still need to fill in a few low spots. I found "235" written on my firewall which matches the sequence # on my chassis broadcast copy. I also can see either "z28" or it's "72" with some other marking and my car is Hugger Orange(code 72). I've seen "D80", "Z27", "Z11" on cars after they were dipped to remove all rust/paint/filler.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 11:10 AM
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When I had my engine out, I removed the inner fenderwells, the core support, the hood latch, hood hinges, etc. (18 separate pieces in all) and I had them sandblasted and powdercoated gloss black). The total cost on all this including sandblasting was around 300 dollars. The powder coating is VERY tough and extremely hard. I know this is alot of trouble but if you want a show quality job as I did, this is the only way to do it. The firewall and Sub-Frame was shot with KRYLON Gloss Black paint (spray can).

I have used POR but it is a PITA so I used it to undercoat the floor pans underneath the seating areas as a rust inhibitor. The main problem with POR is that it is very thick and it is hard to get a perfectly smooth surface when you apply it. Plus as you guys have said, you have to let that stuff wear off your hands if you get it on them because it is not coming off!!!

[This message has been edited by sr71bb (edited 03-14-2000).]
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 04:32 PM
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I used the POR Chassis Coat Black on the engine compartment of my 69. I agree that it is somewhat difficult to work with, however, the end product is absolutely great! I put the Black over the POR-15 silver to get the recommended bond (and to help with being able to make certain I was getting an even coverage). I did find it easier to have all of the front clip disassembled. That way the quarters weren't so close in which to work.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 08:27 PM
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Denver,
You should be able to order the reconditioning paint from your local Chevy dealer. Part #1050104 1 gal., and part #1050105 5 gal. This is supposed to be the same semi-flat black the factory uses. I havent checked lately, but I think it's still available. It was available in spray cans until about 1980 or so. The story I got from Chevy back then was they quit shipping it for safety/insurance reasons. Probably true, since everything nowdays has to have a M.S.D.S., (Manufacturer Safety Data Sheet).
On the hood springs and latch, the plasticote rebuilder gray kinda looks like gray phosphate, only a little lighter shade.
I didn't prime with anything, just sprayed on the bare metal.


[This message has been edited by Peace69Z/28 (edited 03-15-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Peace69Z/28 (edited 03-15-2000).]
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 00, 02:52 PM
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i had no problems with POR-15 ,what i did is disassemble everything cleaned everything the best i could with a wire brush(somethings i sandblasted) then used por-15(semi-gloss) let it dry for a few days then lightly "fogged/sprayed lightly' rust oleum semi-gloss and it looks like new again,i did control arms, frame,springs,radiator support,and inner-fenders(tops)the firewall itself i spray-bombed with semi-gloss enamel,the key thing is have everything clean as possible...good-luck and yes use gloves when painting with por-15....

------------------
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 00, 07:02 PM
 
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I have used sray bomb with good results, but I would use a good sealer underneith it. If you can get PPG DP 90 black sealer in your area it will help you great adheasion and it actually has a real nice semi-gloss finish that looks correct and does'nt need a top coat. Make sure its clean, free from gease, and scuff every thing that will get paint with a scotch bright pad.
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