I have never ever been in a car that sounds as nice and really have the feel of power and torque. It is a stock 327/275hp with camel back heads, crossover manifold. With a stupid Saginaw transmission. But more about trans on the trans post. This engine has so much torque even when im driving normal the vibrations make loosen my screws and make my windows rattle (the ol' glove box problem). My frame, bushings, and mounts are solid. And my engine is just doing what it should. No probs there. Could it be the the louder exhaust with the headers going almost directly into the mufflers and short pipes out the side? Anyone else with this problem and have ideas?
BTW, I have a really quiet hiss coming from my transmission that stops when i put my foot under my clutch and pull it up a little. This is my first 4 speed....Clutch plate right? When I first drove it I was having a hard time because of the stiffness of the trans...and it had a little more ummm...power than my HONDA...lol (2 previous camaros...both automatics).
68 Coupe 327/275hp, sag, 4spd, 10bolt??, Is 3 leafs on the leaf springs ...multi springs?
Your 68 sounds nice, however with solid body mounts all the vibration from the road, trans and the motor is being passed to your body. The rubber bushings isolated all the vibrations you had before. If you want to lose a lot of the vibrations you are getting, lose the solid mounts if you want a better ride. Solid mounts a prety much for racers, I have PST polygraphite bushings. They are the best of both worlds. Stiff like a solid mount and dampening like a rubber mount.
I agree on the sub-frame mounts, but the solid motor mounts are the bigger problem. Get a set of safety mounts from someplace. They are made of rubber and have interlocking tabs to keep the engine from tearing the mount in half. Even better, they will absorb all of those vibes. I got mine from Vette Brakes.
Hugger Orange & white 69 Camaro with supercharged 350, Tremec TKO, and 3.73 12-bolt
The clutch noise is your throw out bearing. Evidently, you don't have enough free play adjusted into the clutch linkage and that makes the throw out bearing contact the clutch ALL THE TIME! This will quickly wear out your throw out bearing, that's the rattling.
Check for a clutch return spring coming off the clutch fork running forward attaching to the motor mount where it bolts to the frame. You either don't have the spring, or don't have enough free play.
It sounds like you have something wrong to cause that kind of vibrations all over the car.
I ran a balanced small block 350 for years with solid motor mounts, it was barely noticeable.
Is the vibration speed related?
related to acceleration? deceleration? steady cruse?
if you depress the clutch, does it go away?
what type road?
I'm thinking you may have a driveshaft problem.
Thanks all, gheatly I think your the closest on the mounts. The vibration is not irregular or alarming. The engine is just really "hopped" up and torqued to the max. Really fast car over 35mph. As for the tranny...Thanks Davidpossi, Im out the door now to take it to price check on a throw out bearing adjustment/Clutch return spring.
I BOUGHT AN ORIGINAL 68/327/275 HP, BLACK WITH BLACK HOUNDSTOOTH AND IS WAITING RESTORATION. I HAVE A HOT 69 CONVERTIBLE WITH THE POLY SUSPENSION. I HAVE NO VIBRATION, HOWEVER, IT IS STIFFER THAN I WOULD LIKE AND WON'T GO THAT ROUTE AGAIN. GO THROUGH A CHECK LIST, TIRES, WHEELS, DRIVESHAFT. BRING THE CAR UP TO 60 AND WITH THE ENGINE OFF, COASTING, DOES THE VIBRATION STILL PERSIST? GOOD LUCK, THE CAMARO GUY
My 69 had a terrible vibration on the freeway at speeds over 55. After tearing it down I found that one of the holes in the frame for the lower control arm bushing had been eggshaped out but the bolt. I had a patch welded into the frame at a good welding shop, redrilled the hole and all is well now.