oil pan seal - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 01, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Big daddy
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Location: oklahoma city,okla.
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I have a 68 327,that had a rear seal leak,I went thru tha pain in the butt to fix,now the front seal on the pan is leaking,I was unaware of the two different seal sizes one thin one thick,can I put the right on on without doing the whole pan thing again?

67ssclone 327 4spd 410
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 01, 02:06 AM
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You might be able to by removing all the pan bolts except the last two at the rear. Then jack up engine, place 2x4's at the engine mounts, and gently pull down at front of pan and remove/replace front oil pan seal, then rebolt everything back together.

Remember, the seal goes over the top of the pan gasket, so hopefully, the gasket will remain in place. If not, or it tears, remove two bolts, and drop the pan, replace gasket and seals.

If the oil pan is original, then it will be the thick seal. If the pan has ever been replaced, it will be the thin seal. Measure from the oil pan rail to the bottom of seal opening in pan, 2 3/8 inches = thick seal; 2 1/4 inches = thin seal.

It is a tough job, especially being on your back, and the tool you need is in the tool box in the garage.

Are you sure the oil seal in the timing cover is not leaking, rather than the pan seal? That one can be changed without removing the cover, but have to remove/replace the harmonic balancer. I suggest to remove radiator to gain more room, plus prevent damaging radiator.

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 01, 07:42 AM
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Original pan = thin seal (.22"); GM service replacement pan = thick seal (.41"). Measurement to determine which pan you have should be made with the pan inverted on a flat surface, with no gaskets on it.

'69 Z28 Fathom Green
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 01, 09:40 PM
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If your going to replace the timing cover oilpan seal you need to loosten all the bolts on the oil pan but not take them out, loosten the front of the pan from the block with a screwdriver insert your pan seal on your timing cover, make sure all contacts have copper sealent, else your doing this for nothing. Re-install your timing cover and make sure the corners of the block to the oilpan are sealed with copper sealent. then bolt it all back up!.. If your rear seal is leaking then your in for a fun job that will take about 2 hours if your not good. These are all standard Gaskets and usually come in a kit at your local store You should not have to measure anything, just tell the person what engine you have for what car.... Aftermarket oilpans with coolers might be a diffrent story tho.
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 01, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Big daddy
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thanks guy,man it's fun working on old cars

67ssclone 327 4spd 410
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