replacing trunk floor pan - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 99, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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The floor pan in my '67 is pretty ratty. Does anyone have any tips on replacing? I see the pan is available from any parts house. It looks like it will need to be cut away from the brackets that the gas tank straps attach to. What is a good way to do that? Which is easier, to replace just the floor section or replace the entire panel? Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 99, 08:42 AM
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Hey Denver, I'm from Longmont CO. I've got a 69 Z-28 that I'm going through the same thing with right now. I found a good classic restorations bodyshop that is going to replace the center section and floor pans for me. Mine is rusted mostly in the center so he is going to replace the center section, the area that is recessed. The rest of my pan along the sides of the trunk looks solid, so we are going to leave it alone. Let me know if you want more info.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 25th, 99, 03:35 PM
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If you don't mind me asking, what price were you quoted to do the job? My '69 RS/SS looks like it may be a candidate for a trunk pan replacement. There are several holes along the recessed ribs with 2 being the size of a dime.

Just curious what a body shop would charge for that type of work...

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 99, 07:23 AM
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The quote I got was about $500 for the floor pans, it's going to be done in 4 sections. It would be considerably more if the seat frame needed removal. Mine are ok though, just need a 1 ft square replacement in each corner. The trunk center section is going to run about $300-400 depending on how long it takes. It's a little more involved since the gas tank needs removal. I did a lot of research on the body shop and the type of work he does and on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being the best, I would rate him a 4 or 5. So I don't think his quote was out of line. A crappy bodyshop gave me a similar quote that was slightly less, but I wouldn't let that guy paint my lawn mower much less weld new floors in my car.

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Shawn "My Camaro is a money pit" Peterson

[This message has been edited by Shawn (edited 11-26-99).]
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 27th, 99, 11:28 AM
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The trunk pan shouldn't be too hard. The fuel tank is a sinch to drop. The only thing that looks difficult is cutting the fuel tank support beams from the old trunk floor and welding the to the new one.

How bad is your trunk floor anyhow? Many large holes?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 27th, 99, 01:46 PM
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My trunk isn't too bad, but take that with a grain of salt. From what I can see in the probing that I've done, it's really a matter of the metal being thin and weak, as opposed to having large gaping holes. The reason I say this is because it's been patched with some fiberglass by a previous owner, then covered with the speckle splatter paint. I've peeled up some of the fiberglass and make an assesment of it. The original contour of the trunk floor is still there, and the fiberglass is just a single layer. Hard to say where my car came from early in it's life, but my guess is that it wasn't someplace where there was salt and snow. My frame is relativly rust free underneath, and my floors rusted from the top down which is good. I suspect my trunk is the same, but I won't really know for sure until the cutter comes out and I drop the tank.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 28th, 99, 10:58 PM
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Sounds like your car is in similar condition to mine. I too have a floor pan that was previously patched. Other than that it is all original metal (AZ car). I know the rear window channel leaks so I figure that is the culprit for the trunk pan.

When I bought the car, the trunk looked good and appeared solid, but had several small rust-colored dots weeping through the spatter. When I stripped the paint, I found the pan was relitively solid, but where the "recessed" ribs were, I had several pinholes and 2 larger (dime sized) holes.

My trunk floor is still relitively strong so I am debating on whether I should cut the rust out and replace the pan / partial pan or strip it the best I can (without doing further damage) and coat it with POR15 silver followed with patching the holes with the POR15 epoxy. Does anyone know if you can apply POR15 paint directly over adhered paint/patch?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 99, 08:55 AM
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I just finished stripping all of the fiberglass from the bottom of my trunk. There were no gaping holes, just lot's of pi holes like you saw in yours. The recessed ribs were the worst, but nothing really bigger than a dime sized hole. As with many old camaros, the damage is mostly confined to the lower trunk floor, as you get up the initial step from the center things improve. The left and right sections of my trunks are still solid. After you mentioned the support reinforcements for the gas tank, I started looking, and sure enough, they're due. I'm gonna have it all re-done. I don't ever want to worry about it ever again. The previous owner must have fixed the leak, because I've hit mine a few times with the pressure washer to see if I could find anything. Mines stay's dry now, so I'm going to get that floor replaced.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 99, 11:43 AM
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You're lucky.....my rear window still leaks like a sieve. Need to address that also...

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