rebuilding a RS headlamp switch - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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Has anyone ever rebuilt or know anything about re-building 68-69 rs headlight switches. I have gone through a couple of them already and am getting tired of haveing to send them off to get fixed, and info would be appreciated.
Oh yeah, the problem is that the switch wont relay the vaccum to the headlight door relay.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 11:30 AM
 
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You can buy a new one from Classic Industries

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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I know that i can get a new one, and they used to be about $15, i called classic, NPD, paddock and all the others, and they are out of stock. But whenever they arrive, they will be at the new price of about $50. I am looking for a cheaper way out, if possible.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 03:17 PM
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Steve
 
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If you can't find another option...I have an extra headlamp switch for a '68-'69 RS. Wasn't planning on selling it...but...

------------------
Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver

[This message has been edited by mccorry (edited 02-12-2000).]
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 05:03 PM
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Carl
 
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If my brain serves me correctly, the vacuum switch is located on the top of headlamp switch and is a pull-open push-closed type. The plunger mechanism is activated by the pulling/pushing of the headlamp switch. 10 years ago I needed a new headlamp switch and no repro RS types were avaialable so I had to do some creative rework to a standard headlamp switch. At the time it turned out that the only difference between std. and RS headlamp switches is the addition of a vacuum switch and an elongated hole on the top plate. The vacuum switch is really a very simple device that you may be able to repair once you remove it from the top plate. You can disassemble the headlamp switch and put it back together, but it may require some adhesive to re-attach the top plate. Beware, there are some springs inside the switch. I milled a new elongated hole on the top plate of the standard switch to accept the vacuum switch and JB welded everything into place.

Once you get the headlamp switch out of the car you you may want to bench test the vacuum switch by mouth suction. If it fails, disassemble the headlamp switch to see if the vacuum mechanism is properly actuated. At this time you should be able to move the vacuum switch by hand and again apply mouth suction. Hopefully the vacuum switch is OK and it is an actuation or hose problem.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 05:08 PM
DjD
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Robby - It sounds like you have had them rebuilt more than once! Are you sure it's the switch and not a vaccume leak in the hoses connected to the switch. You don't hear of them going bad very often! What does the shop that repaired it say about it failing? I hope sending it out wasn't too expensive! Let us know how you resolve this!

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...DjD
Topless'69
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[This message has been edited by DjD (edited 02-13-2000).]
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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I have never had one repaired b4, but i have bought new ones, the warranty on the repros lasts one year, and it broke about a year to the date, so Im out of luck on getting a replacement, for free that is. Mccorry, I appreciate it, but i dont want to deprive you of your switch, keep it, i'll buy a new one If i have to, thanks anyway. I was gonna try to re do it myself, kinda like you suggested Carl, If it works, I will let you all know and post the details of the rebuild here. I have new hoses and a new relay on my doors, my actuators work fine, its just cheap switches, has to be, these repros are made of nothing.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 00, 08:32 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Robby Miller:
Has anyone ever rebuilt or know anything about re-building 68-69 rs headlight switches. I have gone through a couple of them already and am getting tired of haveing to send them off to get fixed, and info would be appreciated.
Oh yeah, the problem is that the switch wont relay the vaccum to the headlight door relay.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Robby,
Just a thought, I recently had to fix a vaccum switch on my gm chassis motorhome. It had a vaccum switch controlling the heater. After a little testing I discovered the switch needs to vent the vaccum from the line and it couldnt because the switch had sucked dirt into the open (vent) side of the vac switch. Perhaps your switch just needs cleaning.

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