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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old May 30th, 00, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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big cams dont produce much vaccum so why not
convert your 68 69 to electric i did its easy
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old May 30th, 00, 01:00 PM
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Carl
 
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OK, I'll bite. Tell us how you did it.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old May 31st, 00, 02:53 AM
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I have a plan and all the pieces to do the same thing using an old power window motor. With this setup you can eliminate a lot of the old RS pieces like the vacuum canisters, the miles of vacuum tubing, the special RS headlight switch. One electric motor, one 30 amp relay, 4 limit switches, and you are in business. In theory anyway. I would love to hear 69 RS Conversions plan as well. We are all ears>
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old May 31st, 00, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Go69:
I have a plan and all the pieces to do the same thing using an old power window motor. With this setup you can eliminate a lot of the old RS pieces like the vacuum canisters, the miles of vacuum tubing, the special RS headlight switch. One electric motor, one 30 amp relay, 4 limit switches, and you are in business. In theory anyway. I would love to hear 69 RS Conversions plan as well. We are all ears&gt;<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mine uses pretty much the same thing except i use two motors i would like to know how to do it with one motor. sounds like a great idea ,do you have yours working on a car now?
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old May 31st, 00, 11:50 AM
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No, I have not actually installed the system yet. I am still in the parts gathering phase.
Currently I have the motor and electrical wiring . Acutally need two DPDT relays (for reverse direction) to actuate the motor. I plan on using picture hanging wire or other thin strand metal wiring to actuate the doors. I have rollers (that act like pulleys) to guide the wires. These are basically sliding glass door rollers that have bearings inside of them. I know that I can do this I just have to sit down and map it all out first. I have gathered the RS headlamp buckets, doors, chrome inserts, bell crank and some other miscellaneous pieces. I still lack the RS grill and chrome grill surround and the back-up lamp assemblies. New baby on the way so this project is stalled for the time being. Will update as time allows.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old May 31st, 00, 11:51 AM
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I just talked with a guy last weekend who has his '67 hide-aways working with power antenna motors....
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 00, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Go69:
No, I have not actually installed the system yet. I am still in the parts gathering phase.
Currently I have the motor and electrical wiring . Acutally need two DPDT relays (for reverse direction) to actuate the motor. I plan on using picture hanging wire or other thin strand metal wiring to actuate the doors. I have rollers (that act like pulleys) to guide the wires. These are basically sliding glass door rollers that have bearings inside of them. I know that I can do this I just have to sit down and map it all out first. I have gathered the RS headlamp buckets, doors, chrome inserts, bell crank and some other miscellaneous pieces. I still lack the RS grill and chrome grill surround and the back-up lamp assemblies. New baby on the way so this project is stalled for the time being. Will update as time allows.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
would you be interested in doing it without using linkage.if so i will try to get pictures if interested
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 00, 03:28 AM
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Yes, I would be most interested in seeing how you accomplish it with two motors. I think that it would probably be a lot easier to set it up with the two motors but my concern was what happens if the "system" breaks down? There is no way to move the doors. With my proposed plan if the system fails you will still be able to open the doors manually by hand without breaking anything and without even having to raise the hood. With the motor attached directly to the bell crank you would have to disconnect the linkage in the event of system failure. Just a thought.

[This message has been edited by Go69 (edited 06-01-2000).]
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 00, 04:28 AM
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The power antenna method sounds the easiest.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 00, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Go69:
Yes, I would be most interested in seeing how you accomplish it with two motors. I think that it would probably be a lot easier to set it up with the two motors but my concern was what happens if the "system" breaks down? There is no way to move the doors. With my proposed plan if the system fails you will still be able to open the doors manually by hand without breaking anything and without even having to raise the hood. With the motor attached directly to the bell crank you would have to disconnect the linkage in the event of system failure. Just a thought.

[This message has been edited by Go69 (edited 06-01-2000).]
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
the motors i use have a knob so they can be turned by hand if need be , i also have a manual switch to open them without the lights being open
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 00, 10:44 AM
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I have the same problem, to much cam not enough vacum. I was considering running a second vacum canister. Does this work?

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 00, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by R/S 350:
I have the same problem, to much cam not enough vacum. I was considering running a second vacum canister. Does this work?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
not really one option is that some GM cars such as 1989 buick somerset bodys have an electric vaccum pump that operates the brake booster you might find one in the bone yard check with a friend at a local dealership they will be familiar with this maybe this will help if i remember the pump itself is not very big
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 3rd, 00, 01:08 PM
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69 RS. How about posting pictures and a detailed material list and whatever info needed for the rest of us to do the same? I have a 69 RS and just rebuilt the headlight doors. Unfortunately, the guy I bought it from threw away all the vacuum canisters, tubing, etc to 'clean up the engine compartment'.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 3rd, 00, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RickD:
69 RS. How about posting pictures and a detailed material list and whatever info needed for the rest of us to do the same? I have a 69 RS and just rebuilt the headlight doors. Unfortunately, the guy I bought it from threw away all the vacuum canisters, tubing, etc to 'clean up the engine compartment'.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ill be glad to help anyone but first please understand that i do very well to turn this computer on so i have to rely on my brother for help to get the pictures posted so here goes with what i can tell you. first you need two headlight motors from a chrysler lebaron such as 1987-1989 prefer the later for they have a better motor.A lebaron carries one motor per car so i found two in the bone yard.They carry a square piece of shimstock through a square hole in the motorthat actuates both doors on the chrysler,one is enough for the job,remove your stock bellcrank and saw it off so that it is almoast flush with the hole in the inner fender (all of this is much easier if the front fender extension is removed) next take a drill bit index and see which hole the square shimstock fits closest to, next center punch and drill a hole that size in the bellcrank where you cut it off close to 1/4 inch deep .the only critical thing in all of this is make sure the hole you drill needs to be centered as close as possible. Next press the square shimstock into the hole you drilled (a piece of the stock 4 inches will be more than enough) next drill a small hole through the bellcrank and through the shim so as to insert an aluminm roll pin or as i did a soft screw to act as a shear pin. after this install the bell crank back on the car,with the square stock protuding through the inner fender hole next make sure that the door opens and closes without binding (very important) next from underneath the car take the motor and slide it over the rod through the motor you have three mounting holes on the motor mark and drill these out , i placed mine so that the manual knob on the motor can be reached by reaching just in front of the tire . but never used mine.after drilling the three holes you can mount the motor you will have to use a couple washers to make it mount flat aginst the botton of the inner fender.
after this comes the electrical but it is simple just time consuming it is a lot of trouble but well worth it when you see the look on peoples face when you drive into a cruise in and shut off your lights!!! got to go now if you want the low down on how to complete this or have questions on this so far let me know i will check back later thanks for being interested good luck jp
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 00, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 69 rs conversion:
Quote:
Originally posted by Go69:
Yes, I would be most interested in seeing how you accomplish it with two motors. I think that it would probably be a lot easier to set it up with the two motors but my concern was what happens if the "system" breaks down? There is no way to move the doors. With my proposed plan if the system fails you will still be able to open the doors manually by hand without breaking anything and without even having to raise the hood. With the motor attached directly to the bell crank you would have to disconnect the linkage in the event of system failure. Just a thought.

[This message has been edited by Go69 (edited 06-01-2000).]
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
the motors i use have a knob so they can be turned by hand if need be , i also have a manual switch to open them without the lights being open
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