Headlight switch for console gauges! - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 00, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Well, after JohnZ posted that great info on the differences between the headlight switches for gauge and non gauge cars, I went and checked mine.

Whadda know, I could tell the diff right off. The non gauge one has a sorta orange bakelite for the instrument lights resistor and the gauge ones have a much larger ceramic one.

My SS/RS one did not have the correct ceramic one, so I just took one of my spare gauge ones and put the RS vacuum backing plate on the ceramic housing and walla! a correct gauge switch for RS lights.

Both switches have the same housings, internals and connectors (except for the ceramic).

Now everyone else has to check their switches

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 00, 08:47 AM
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Kevin,

I missed this discussion. Was it in General Tech?

Thanks,
Marc
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 00, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Marc, I can't find it now, but it was not posted in General tech, that's why I posted the info here, just in case someone missed it. But now I can't find it, the topic started as something else and wound up there Sorry, Kevin

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69' SS-350 ragtop, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 00, 10:24 AM
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It was in General Tech under rally-sport. An owner of a resto shop wanted to know what was involved in converting to RS. Having been down that path I knew about the headlamp switch differences.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 00, 05:55 PM
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You take any pics of the 2 different switches?

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Steve McCorry - Central Ohio Camaro Club
'69 Camaro RS/SS-350 - Daytona Yellow
'95 Camaro Z-28 - Sebring Silver
click here to see my webpage ---> www.mindspring.com/~mccorry (updated 12/22/00)
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 00, 07:03 PM
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OK, so is there a difference in gauge light intensity between the two switches?

I added factory gauges to my '69 RS/SS, and have always thought the gauges were lit fairly well. Are they brighter with the "correct" switch?

Keith
'69 RS/SS 502
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 04:01 AM Thread Starter
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I would think they used the ceramic to ensure that there were no fires due to the increased heat (of the resistor) of more bulbs. I wondered if you had the auto console (which had a couple more bulbs too) you would get the ceramic switch?

Steve, If I can borrow a camara, I'll post the pics. How much snow did you get?
Where I live in NJ is supposed to get 8 to 15 in this saturday.

Kevin

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69' SS-350 ragtop, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
69' Hugger Orange Z-21 ragtop 327/PG, Driver

[This message has been edited by KevinW (edited 12-29-2000).]
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 05:35 AM
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Yes, mine is an original auto/console car. It also has the factory courtisy (sp?) light option. How about it, did you see a difference in the light intensity when you changed the switches?

Since we are on the subject of lights, the courtisy light option came with a trunk light that has a mercury switch built in. However, the power comes from either the dome light (coup) or running lights (convertable). This means that you either have to have the dome light on (coup) or the lights on (conv.) for the light in the trunk to work. When I bought my car, the light was hooked up like a convertable (the trunk harness is appearantly from a conv.). The harness was OK, so I kept it.

This all seems kinda hooky. Is the way I discribed above the way it is supposed to work?

Keith
'69 RS/SS 502
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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The switches do not change the intensity of the lights. Both switches have a similar rheostat that increases the resistance on the curcuit from power to ground (the bulbs) It goes from full 12V to off. But the more bulbs on the circuit will increase the amps pulled through the switch, when you use the dimmer it increases the resistance and makes heat, thus a larger insulating block is required. Anyone, please feel free to rebut.

Kevin

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69' SS-350 ragtop, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
69' Hugger Orange Z-21 ragtop 327/PG, Driver

[This message has been edited by KevinW (edited 12-29-2000).]
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 07:24 AM
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Makes sense to me, since more power is being drawn, the smaller resistor would probably overheat if the dimming feature were used for extended periods of time.

Camaro350
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 08:23 AM
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So, does this apply to non-RS cars as well? I am planning to add console gauges to my 69 Z/28, will I need a different headlight switch?

Thanks,
Marc
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 12:37 PM
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Yes
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 00, 02:33 PM
 
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so are there 4 different switchs? rs with and without gauges. and non rs with and without?
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 00, 04:03 AM
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 00, 07:07 AM
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I have a circa 1979 P & A manual. Here are the part numbers shown. A word of caution: the descriptions are cryptic at best so this is my interpretation of what they mean.

std - 1995175
RS - 1995176
std w/gauge - 1995192
RS w/gauge - 1995177
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