RS Vacuum hoses reversed but works OK?? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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I just rebuilt the hideaways in my 68. New relay valve, canisters and hose kit. According to about 5 sources I have, the red lined hose runs from the top port on the relay to the front fitting on the canisters and the green line runs from the bottom of the relay to the back of the canisters. I have them hooked onto the canisters correctly but I have to have them reversed on the relay to get it to work. It works fine, I'm just confused. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 03:26 AM
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Sounds like the dash switch has the hoses reversed.

------------------
68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,Autometer guage pod
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't think that would matter. I'll switch them tonight and see what happens. THANKS
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 04:03 AM
 
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I recently replaced the hoses on my 68 RS and they also have to be reversed to work correctly. I am positive that my hoses had never been replaced prior to that so there was no chance that anything could have been reversed somewhere else. It is a little confusing but I just decided to leave it as it was since it worked. I wasn't able to get any good feedback on this site as to why??
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 04:15 AM
 
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Hey winch...when you installed your hose kit did you install a check valve anywhere? I wasn't sure whether or not a 68 had a check valve. I found that 69's do but was getting misleading information concerning 68's. I would look in different parts books and 1 would list the part for 68-69 and others would list it for 69 only. This is different than the little white filter that comes with the hose kit. If you installed one on your car please reply and let me know where...

Thanks!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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Mivy, I had a 68 check valve on mine. It's different than the 69. It is a single in and single out, the 69 is a single in and dual out. The both go in the line that comes off the maniflod. The difference is that the 68 goes directly to the tank whereas the 69 sends one to the tank and the other to the light switch. On the 68 the hose to the light switch comes off a Tee in the large yellow hose that goes from the tank to the relay.
You're right about the confusion in the parts catalogs. I couldn't find a 68 valve anywhere. Fortunately I was able to use silicon caulk on mine and it works fine now. A guy at Autozone said they sell check valves for brake vacuum hoses that might work? I guess you could use a 69 and just plug off one side or run it to the light switch and remove the Tee. It won't be technically correct but should work.

I agree on leaving it alone. I will try reversing the light switch hoses like CA420 suggests, but if that doesn't fix it I'm going to leave sleeping dogs lie.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 05:04 AM
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Some info provided by CA420 in a post by mivy.. www.camaros.net/forum/Forum1/HTML/003852.html
It seems that there are some incorrect (reversed) directions with the kits..

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...Dennis
'69 RS Convertible w/SS trim
'96 Z28SS #1679 of 2410
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 05:17 AM
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Winch, I went thru this same project a month and a half ago on my 69. For everything to work properly, I too, had to reverse the green stripe and red stripe hose on the relay valve and left the hoses on the headlight switch as they were. There have been numerous posts on this very problem, which is what helped me in figuring this out. Sounds like you are coming to the same conclusion. Now that it works, just enjoy.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 11:12 AM
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You have to set everything up based off the relay switch under the hood. If the doors work backwards then the hoses at either end, meaning actuators or dash switch, are not connected properly. Full vacuum should be present at the dash switch, the reservoir and the "Y" connection of the relay switch. The small hose on top of the relay should only have vacuum to it when the dash switch is pulled out, if not then it is backwards at the dash. Now lets look at the relay itself. It has a piston inside that connects 2 ports at a time to vacuum. With that in mind the piston should be in the full down position when the car is running or not connecting the yellow and green hoses together and the red is vented to atmosphere keeping the doors closed. When vacuum is applied from the dash switch to the relay via the small hose on top the piston moves up connecting the red and yellow hoses together and the green is then vented to atmosphere causing the doors to open. The small hose on the relay does the same job as flipping the manual switch on top of the relay only it does it internally.

This is how the doors work. You cannot move the actuators with vacuum applied to both sides. To verify what I am saying go buy, borrow, or rent a hand operated vacuum pump and hook it up to the actuators and see how they work. This can be done on the car without starting it. then hook it up to where the yellow hose connects to the relay and use the manual switch to open and close the doors. It does take a while and you hand will hurt but you will see the whole process fall into place and start to make sense.


I wish that AL would put this info in the tech section of the site as to benefit everyone.

------------------
68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,Autometer guage pod
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 11:37 AM
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CA420 - I don't think they work backwards. They work when the red and green hoses are swapped. I may have missed something but that's the read I get..

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...Dennis
'69 RS Convertible w/SS trim
'96 Z28SS #1679 of 2410
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 06:55 PM
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Everything CA420 says makes sense,except flipping the headlight switch hoses.I had mine flipped and there was a constant vacuum leak at the switch.Flipped mine so the manifold vacuum is on the rear port,no more leak.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old May 11th, 01, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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I switched the hoses to the light switch light night (I actually switched them at the Tee in the yellow hose and the top of the relay). The results: the doors wouldn't open at all. This matches what DALE68Z reports.

My understanding is that with the lights turned off vacuum flows freely between the tank and the top of the relay. When you turn the lights on the vacuum is relieved from the top of the relay while the hose coming from the tank must be closed off or you would lose vacuum in the entire system. You can verify this by pulling them off at the Tee and relay and blow into either one. With the light switch turned off you will get air out of the other one. Turn the light switch on and you can't blow into one at all. You can blow into the other one but you won't get air our of the other one.

Routing the red hose from the top of the relay to the front of the actutators does match both the little RYG that is stamped on the side of the original relay and the picture in the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual, but it seems like a lot of us with after market relays are seeing just the opposite. Maybe the canisters are backwards now
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old May 11th, 01, 06:02 AM
 
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FYI...I ended up buying the assembly manual thinking that I would get the correct instructions for routing my hoses and found that the instructions that came with my hose kit are just a copy of the page out of the manual. The manual appeared to be backwards...
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old May 11th, 01, 10:28 PM
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Ok,I confess,I've been bragging on how good my repro stuff, I bought is.Wellll,my repro vacuum relay was leaking .I replaced it with my old,origional,ugly,cut apart,but still works,relay.This is a GM part,and the hoses go on the same way as the repro one.

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68 z28 ,68 rs 327 ,73 454 vette, 2 goofy kids
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