Help I snaped a stud off! - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 01, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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The other day I was putting my valve cover back on and I over torqued it and it snapped off in the head what is the best way to get it out?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 01, 03:53 PM
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69,

Sears sells a removal kit. I forget exactly what it's called but it will let you extract the rest of the bolt without destroying the threads in the head. You basically drill a hole in the broken bolt, and a cone-shaped tool twists into the hole and is turned counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
Or you can drill the broken bolt out of the head, threads and all and install a heli-coil.



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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 01, 06:07 PM
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They are called EZ-outs. I am sure there are other trade names for them....

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 01, 07:02 PM
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Have you ever heard of left hand drill bits,They work great on stuff like this.Chuck it up in a reversable drill and it will usually turn it right out,Most HWD stores have them,or tool suppiliers like MAC and SNAP ON.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 01, 02:26 AM
 
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If you bottomed the stud in the hole and twisted it off you'll probably need a more drastic remedy such as an EZ Out or a drill. If it twisted off without bottoming out you can probably coax it out with a punch and small hammer. You'll need to be able to see it very clearly, then lightly tap one edge of the remaining part in a counterclockwise direction. If it is not bottommed in the hole it will probably begin to turn without too much effort. This will be a delicate operation on a 1/4" stud but it can be done.

Good luck
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 01, 03:35 AM
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Becareful!!! I used left handed drill bits and EZ-out and they are far from easy. If you use them, take you sweet time and be very careful. They work, but they can damage the threads. Of course I was using it on something smaller than you... and I think that was most of the problem. Good luck.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 01, 10:25 AM
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EZ-Out! That's what they're called. Thanks


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old May 5th, 01, 07:57 PM
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no problem, Joe....you'd do the same for me!

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old May 6th, 01, 06:35 AM
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Valve cover bolts ate 1/4 inch and hard to drill without damaging threads. I would place a washer over the bolt and weld it to the bolt with a mig welder. Then place a nut on the washer and weld it around the outside if the washer. Now you can take a wrench and remove the broken bolt. Be sure to cover the open engine with something non flamable to keep weld splater out of it and have someone standing by to watch for fire.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 07:41 AM
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If you go the drill way becareful to keep the drill on the bolt cast iron is alot softer than a steel bolt ,you can screw up really easy ...I did in a fresh set of heads that way!

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 09:05 AM
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Be careful not to bust an EZ out in the hole. I'd just drill it out and tap it again, or heli coil it. if it won't come out with a punch or left handed drillbit don't waste too much time on it. if you bust an easy out, you'll find it very very diffuicult to drill it.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 03:46 PM
 
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Here's one for ya. Use a vibrating pencil (the kind for engraving names onto your tools). You will be amazed at how easy this works. It's the punch routine with a thousand tiny hits a minute.

69er

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 05:33 PM
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69er, Yea I can see that working!
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 09:20 AM
 
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I have to go with BigGearHeads suggestion.. I have done all of the above before (don;t say it.. I know now to watch what I am doing) and the welding the washer and nut has always proved to be the safest (for the head anyway) and best procedure.
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