hard starting, Please HELP - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 00, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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I'm back with yet another problem. My 84 Camaro has a 350 in it. After I changed the Intake Manifold gasket. After it runs for a while and I turn it off. and about 5 min later go to fire it back up. It cranks over really hard. I Heard of heat socked stars and stuff but it never did it before I changed the intake manifold gasket. Would this be because I moved the timming and it's running hotter now. I now no clue. I'm afriad to shut if off now. HOpe someone has an answer to my problem. Thanx
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 00, 04:42 PM
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need to check your timing,i think you have it to high.
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 00, 09:13 PM
 
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Unless someone has bypassed it, your '84 has an ECM that controls the fuel and spark (timing) delivery to your engine. If you have advanced the timing more than what the ECM can handle, this may explain why you're now having problems. I would suggest returning the timing back to within a degree or two of what the factory specified, 6*BTDC w/either the 4-wire connector(carbureted 350) or the tan/black bypass connector(fuel injected 350) disconnected. You may also need to reset your base idle speed and clear any trouble codes store in the ECM.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 00, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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So it's not the starter at all. Cause it only cranks hard when it's hot. The only wires I have going to my motor are for the starter and distributor. That's it. Well and the alternator. But I dont' have many wires to the motor. Witch way to I turn the Distributor to fix this problem if it's the distributor?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 00, 11:43 AM
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CamArrow,
If your distributor is the large diamiter HEI It probably has a mechanical advance inside the cap and a vaccum advance can on the side of it.
If you have the small body distributor with a two plugs on the side, that is the one that uses the computer to control the advance curve, it has no weights inside the cap.

The small body type requires you to set base timing by disconnecting the tan/black lead near the distributor. It's an inline connector, not something that plugs into the distributor directly.
You need a timing light and set base timing to what the sticker says on the radiator support or air cleaner decal.

If you have the large HEI type, just set timing with the vaccum advance disconnected.
David

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 00, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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I think i figured out why it hard to start when it gets warm. I'm getting water down in the cylinders. I realized today after I get it fired up there is just a crap load of white smoke comming outta the tail pipes, and I pulled all the plugs and they were rusty on the ends. I tightened up the intake bolts to. Ever since this hard starting problem the motor winds way out before it shifts now. It used to shift about 2 grand when I don't gun it, now I just slowly take off and the old tach goes up to 4 grand, when it shifts it goes the 3 grand then it goes to 4 and shifts agian.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 00, 08:33 PM
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Sounds like trouble.
Fix it right away or you will get corrosion in the cylinders when the engine sits overnight.

It might be the intake manifold leaking,
You might also have water in the oil.
Sorry, David

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