Do I need screw-in studs? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Question

I recently bought a set of #487 iron heads for my 350. I was told that I might have to have screw-in studs and guideplates installed(he said he was quoted about 100 bucks) I called the machine shop and they want 180 bucks plus parts(about $60)to do the job. Do I really need them? I'm building a fairly mild street 355 with Hyp. pistons, a comp cams energizer cam(218dur0.450/.0450lift). The heads have 2.02/1.60 valves and 76cc chambers. I will be using stock 1.5 rockers. The machinist said I should get about 300-320 Hp when it's all said and done. I will not be racing the car. Do I really need to have studs and guideplates installed? Is it possible to do it by yourself if I do need it?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 04:46 AM
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Do you need them, No. Can you install them yourself, If you have a drill press.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 04:51 AM
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I had that same issue come up and decided it was not work it. As long as high lift and high RPM are not an issue, you should be fine.

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 05:00 AM
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Usually screw in studs aren't really necessary until the .480 to .500 lift area on a small block or if you are in the 7000 rpm area or above.

The reason guideplates become necessary at some point in time is that the stock pushrod holes that are cast into the heads SOMETIMES require some machining (enlarging) to allow for enough clearnace for higher lift cams. Here again the magic number for a small block is around .500 lift. You are far below that so you will have no problems.

This lesson was learned by me the HARD WAY on my first HOTROD when I was breaking pushrods because they were binding on my UNMACHINED push rod guides. I also forgot to use rocker arms with an elongated slot so they were binding under full lift. My CAM had .515 lift and I was breaking EVERYTHING!!!!

By the way, EVEN if you had a drill press I WOULD NOT attempt to do the screw in studs yourself because they should be perfectly perpendicular to your head or you could have some rocker alignment problems.


[This message has been edited by sr71bb (edited 10-27-2000).]

[This message has been edited by sr71bb (edited 10-27-2000).]
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Wow! thanks a bunch, guys! You just saved me 250+ bucks. Thanks again!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 06:11 AM
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How about pinning?
I have had success with this in the past, although some people think this is a hack that does as much harm as good. What are your thoughts???
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 07:31 AM
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Pinning is a "poor mans" fix, but it works. I just do not trust that the pin will not come out and take an oil passage trip.

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Mark

1992 Firebird 355/Six Speed
1991 RS 350 / 700-R4
1987 Toyota Pickup 383 / 500 + HP 10.963 @ 119.95 Slicks / 11.997 @ 114.23 Radials
http://personal.lig.bellsouth.net/~racer383/
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 00, 01:41 PM
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I with Mark all the way here. There is way too many vibrations and harmonics in a valvetrain not to think it might be possible for those pins to come out somewhere, somehow.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 00, 02:06 PM
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I've installed 1/8" x 1" roll pins and you can't get the little buggers out with an 1/8" drift punch!!!! Buy 17 roll pins and two 1/8" bits and have at it.
I know that it's better to thread and stuff, but the roll pins are fine for mild cams. pdq67



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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 00, 04:05 PM
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How far along are you with this? I'd suggest using some of the money to get the block decked to bump up the compression. Those 76cc heads aren't too bad with this cam, but higher compression will wake it up some. .020 deck cut with thin head gaskets is about all you can cut without problems bolting the intake on. Verify the actual deck height first though. Something to think about.

[This message has been edited by tom3 (edited 10-29-2000).]
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 00, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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I am assembling the block right now. Low compression is OK with me right now, i want to be able to run the cheap gas. I will most likely have enough power to suit me. If it seems really weak, i might bump up the CR a little, we'll see. Thanks again for all the help.
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