Pace Car no-no? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Mi. USA
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Question

When looking to buy a '69 convertible is there anything in particular that should be paid special attention to that would result in a "no way jose" response? (ie: rusted out rear shock mounts, rusted out rear deck) The car is a Pace Car, so what might normally be unacceptable, might be o.k. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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new house + new daughter = no toys (used to have a '66 Chevelle)
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 06:40 AM
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Just bought one. This all depends on how much you are willing to spend. Make sure that you inspect the cowl tag on the firewall and look for the RPO "Z11" stamp code. Things to check that could be expensive to fix - make sure that the headlight doors open and close, make sure that the cowl inductions works, also if it's a power top, make sure that it also opens and closes. Good luck!
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks SSdanny69. I'm jealous. I need to clarify what condition the car is. It's seen a fair share of the elements here in northern michigan. Hood is not there. Top is probably trashed. Interior is probably trashed, too. No motor. Trans? Floor pans probably need replacing. Some rust and dents. Needs TOTAL restoration. Now for the good news, it does indeed have the z-11 on firewall tag. I'm not entirely interested in a numbers matching, concourse restoration, but it might be a good starting point for a semi-modified restore and driver. Once again thanks for any input.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 07:19 AM
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gman -

A '69 Pace Car in good condition will run you between $20-25K for a small block 350 and between $25-35K for a big block 396. I've seen "project" cars go for as high as $18K. There's one posted on this website in Florida that is a project. Go into the '69 cars for sale section under Team Camaro. Again, if you're looking for a "restored" car with minimal work needed, try either the Kruse In'tl or Jackson-Barrett auctions. I bought mine from the 2nd owner who live in California that is in good condition, matching #'s. 350/auto and paid $23,900. Everything works (had to change out distributor)and the only modifications to the car was the exhaust - Borla stainless steel and Dakota Digital Dash package with tach.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 12:18 PM
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I live close to the same area as you gman close to Windsor Canada anything is fixable depends on how much you can do yourself and the price. But i would look at the rockers and the area under the rear seat I bought a 68 rag that needed quarters outer wheel wells and trunk pan motor and trans for $2500.00 canadian=1800.00 us but i do all the work myself so i am happy. The one you are looking at sounds like a cool project.....
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 04:42 PM
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i also agree..check the cowl tag..look for z11,color,ect.then..no rust,then i would check all #.the engine,trans,rear gear,mine is a z11.ss/rs/396/350 hp.and all # matching,all the way to the belts and hoses...good luck...yote.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 06:15 PM
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How do the doors open and close? Without the support of the roof convertibles can really start to sag in the middle. If you can, drive one wheel up on the curb and then open and close the doors. Can be real expensive to repair if it's not structurally sound.

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...Dennis
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 01, 07:10 PM
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Doesn't the X-crossmember under the car help support it?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 01, 04:25 AM
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Absolutly, I drove a Z-11 that had the x-brace removed. The car felt like rubber when you hit a rough spot of road. A 30+ yr old car that has been through the wringer, improperly restored once or twice, had some ok sheetmetal hung on it may not be in the best of shape structurally. In a world where guys find chicken wire with bondo smoothed over it to fix rust who knows.

If you put one wheel on the curb and can't open the door, it'a telling you something...

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...Dennis
The Cars:
'69 RS Convertible w/SS trim
'96 Z28SS #1679 of 2410
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 01, 04:53 AM
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Hey Gman! Sounds like you've already gotten some great advice. With all of those pieces missing...that sounds like a street machine candidate to me There was a Z11 (maybe a clone) street machine done in the pro touring style at last years Autorama...it was a really nice car. Good luck! I would caution not to pay too much for a car as molested as you are describing. Take care ~ John

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 01, 05:07 AM
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gman:
keep a look out for fresh paint job. There also may be bondo lurking beneath. Maybe use the magnet test to see whats metal vs. bondo.
If bondo is there, rust may be just around the corner....
With original paint (i know its hard to find), it may not look that shiney, but at least you know what your starting out with.




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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 01, 06:07 AM
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DjD-

Could intalling a set of subrame connectors also help?
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 01, 07:53 AM
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I don't have any exp with subframe connectors but believe they really make a difference in overall handling...

Jumping forward a few generations to the SLP Camaro SS, the convertibles are fitted with 16" wheels vrs the 17" they put on the coupes. The overall structure of the F-body convertible is much less ridged than the coupe and the added handling of 17" 40 series sidewall is just enough to warrent not using the taller wheels. I only throw that out to exemplify the difference between coupe and convertible.

Now go back to our 30 yr old wonders and you will see why the x brace, coctail shakers and proper restoration/restafacation are so important... Subframe connectors really should be used to enhance the performance of your car. You shouldn't use them to mask the real problem. I am not an expert in camaro structure but I believe there are many differences in the convertible. As an example there is extra metal in the door sill area and the inner layer can be rotting away even if the visible surfaces have been repaired...


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...Dennis
The Cars:
'69 RS Convertible w/SS trim
'96 Z28SS #1679 of 2410
The Club:
Camaros Limited Nor-Cal
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 01, 09:11 AM
 
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Sorry, but sounds like a bottomless money pit to me. Start adding up parts only and you'll agree. Better to look for a trashed car from the Southwest if you are looking for a project.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 29th, 01, 03:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all of the information guys. Anticipating the responses to my question made coming to work on Monday morning more bearable (dare I say I was looking forward to it). The general consensus is as I expected. What are my limits, and HOW MUCH MONEY DO I HAVE TO SPEND? I'll make sure I pay special to those areas that were mentioned. If I buy it, I'll let y'all know.
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