Stripped Distributor Hold down bolt - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2000 Our previous General Forum
Replies ONLY - no new topics.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Broomfield, Colorado
Posts: 755
Post

The stinkin' distributor hold down bolt stripped out the threads on my RPM manifold! What a big pain in the rear! I particularly like the way the timing changes while I'm driving.

I suppose there's a heli-coil repair kit and all I have to do is pull the distributor and do the repair? Any body do this already and have any words of wisdom or warnings?

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1
RockyMtnRacer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 08:59 AM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 96
Post

I had to do it on one of the Thermostat housing bolts on my RPM manifold. Heli-coils are expensive is all i can say. 20 bucks for a kit that does 2 repairs. Just be patient, read the directions, and make sure the hole is cleanly tapped, you dont want to put the helicoil in only to find out it wont go all the way down, cause it wont come back out.
Ryan67 is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 09:32 AM
Senior Tech
Gene
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 1,659
Post

Rock,

You may have to pull the manifold to insure that the new hole you will have to drill and tap is perpendicular to the face of the distributor pad.

I would recommend using an ARP distributor hold down stud. It costs a couple of bucks and you won't have to worry about stripping the threads again.

Couldn't resist - I guess you now have an Edelbroke intake???

[This message has been edited by gheatly (edited 08-01-2000).]
gheatly is offline  
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 09:56 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: MA, USA
Posts: 460
Post

You do need to fix it properly but as a quick fix if you need or want to drive it until you do fix it is to stick a piece of wire in the bolt hole then put the bolt in and tighten it. It will take up the extra room of the stripped area and the bolt will be tight. I know its cheesy but it is a decent temporary fix to keep your timing from moving if you have to drive it
68SS396 is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 11:25 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: denver, co USA
Posts: 407
Post

NAPA sells some stuff that is designed to "make" threads. It comes in a package with two parts. The first part is like a glue that you pour into the hole and the second part looks like nail polish and you coat the bolt with this and screw it into the hole. Let it set overnight and then remove the bolt. (if you don't coat the bolt, it is supposed to be a permanent part of your manifold). I have not used the stuff, but remember seeing it and it may be worth a shot. The guys at NAPA may have some other suggestions too. Sometimes, just tapping the hole and getting it real clean is enough. Especially in this instance where you don't need to put a lot of torque on the bolt.
denverRS/SS is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Broomfield, Colorado
Posts: 755
Post

Good suggestions - thanks! I suppose I could also take the ARP stud and dribble a little JB Weld or other epoxy in the hole and screw it in and let it set overnight.

I can't get too excited about pulling my Edelbroke manifold or spending $20 for a heli-coil. I'll check out the Napa product first and see if that will do the trick.

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1
RockyMtnRacer is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 12:43 PM
Senior Tech
Carl
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: La La Land, CA
Posts: 2,707
Post

It's probably a dumb question, but how about a longer bolt?

Can you drill and tap the hole for a 7/16-14 bolt? The tap drill size is "U" = 0.368". You should be able to do the job with a 3/8" (0.375") drill. I think you could do this with the manifold on but the distributor removed. The drill should follow the original hole close enough for this type of repair as long as you are carefull. You may need a bottom tap to utilize as much of the thread hole as possible.

I just had to drill-tap my swaybar frame bolts because one side ripped out. I upped the size from 5/16"-18 to 3/8"-16 and it worked well. No Helicoils but I had to use a Allen-head internal wrenching screw for clearance.

You may have to file the groove on the hold-down bracket for clearance.



------------------
Click here to see see my car and hear 5-speeds. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
CarlC is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 02:07 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Whittier, California
Posts: 246
Post

Pull distributor, close off hole.

Use a drill with a stop on it to go to the next thread size, drill.

Use both a starter and bottoming tap of the next size.

Install stepped stud from hardware store, re-install distributor, hold down plate and nut, set timing.

Problem fixed, and the way it should have been, aluminum intake = stud, not bolt.

The least the aluminum has bolts moved through its threads, the linger the threads/aluminum will last and not have problems.

You work with aluminum threads long enough, studs just become the default fastener.

Just what I do for this particular malfunction.

IgnitionMan is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 02:09 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Hayward,Ca,USA
Posts: 287
Post

I would do what Denver RS/SS suggests. Then I would install a Moroso distributor hold down kit. It comes with a stud and nut rather than a bolt. For the life of me I cannot understand why more people don't use this, I think that using a bolt in that area is ridiculous since it is so easy to strip.

Steve R.
Steve R is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 00, 05:34 PM
Senior Tech
Jerry
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: camdenton,mo.usa
Posts: 256
Post

Rocky, from reading your post your dist was advancing while you were driving, so you over tighten the bolt to hold it in place I had the same problem and I pulled the dist. and installed two gaskets under the dist. I-man has the correct fix for your dist.by the way I was in your town last week it look like a nice town and I loved the mountains!
molaker is offline  
post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 00, 08:47 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 217
Post

Here's the secret:

Get an AFR Pro-Flo RPM intake. It has 2 holes for the distributor hold downs, it's port matched for the AFR heads you know you're going to break down and buy, and it just may help keep up with the Green (motorless) Meanie.

------------------
Shawn Peterson
1969 Z28, 406SB
http://www.geocities.com/corsican69
Shawn is offline  
post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 00, 10:30 AM
Moderator
David Pozzi
 
davidpozzi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Central California, USA
Posts: 10,061
Post

IgnitionMan's way will last.


------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Homepage
67 RS 327
69 Camaro Vintage Racer
65 Lola T-70 Can Am Vintage Racer
davidpozzi is offline  
post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 3rd, 00, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Broomfield, Colorado
Posts: 755
Post

I agree - the IM way is the best approach.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1
RockyMtnRacer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome