69 Z-28 HELP NEEDED BADLY - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 00, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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I found a 69 z-28 thru a friend and went to check it out,wow. the cowl tag is x-33 and the only thing not original is the short block, its a 400. the rest of the car body wise looks like it was in a demo derby, every corner has been hit. He's in no hurry to sell it and hasnt advertised to anyone about it. He has the protecto-plate and complete documentation on it, and both rear quarter body panels(reproduction).He's got the original muncie in pieces in a box in the trunk. He's firm on $4100.00, which sounds resonable, but my problem is should i restore or get repo stuff for it. My friends say get it at throw it together so you can drive it, but i am worried that if i throw all this money into it it wont be worth squat down the road. and alot of the parts that i have looked for are either non existant or horribly expensive. HELP!!!!!!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 02:11 AM
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From the way you described this car, $4100 sounds kind of expensive. Without the original engine, it will just be a plain 69 camaro and these can be had, in the condition you described, for much less. If your heart is set on this car, then repro vs OEM is a different story.(there are many previous topics regarding this subject) Either way, unless you can do your own body work, it will cost.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 03:42 AM
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Derby, ah....walk away.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 04:24 AM
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Mr Cornholio,

I would walk away. The reproduction rear quarters are most likely junk. I got a repro rear quarter for my 67 and it did not fit at all. I had to spend 1000 for an original GM part. You are probably looking at 10000 plus to get the body back into shape.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 05:23 AM
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the verdict is in, walk away. 4100.00 for something that bad, no way. you end up with 700.00 plus for front fenders, 700.00 plus for quarters, door skins are 100.00 plus a piece. you'll end up with more money into the body work then what the cars worth. and without the 302, it's not a "z". and to buy a 302, if you can find one, isn't cheap. it would probably be cheaper for you to go buy one for 10,000, then it would be to fix up that car, unless you work in a body shop and you can do the work yourself.
move on my friend,
bruce69camaro
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 06:08 AM
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I usually don't get involved in the "what is it worth" posts,but in the case of a car in this condition,If it had potential to be worth alot,I would wonder why the current owner would'nt put it together himself,to make the extra $.He probably knows he would be on the losing end.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 10:06 AM
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I think you're getting excellent advice. I'm sure it is tempting given the low initial price, but having been there when I was much younger, I've learned the hard way several times. ALWAYS better to spend the most possible and buy a car in better shape. Unfortunately, it's hard to wait and save.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 10:30 AM
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I have one correction: the car will always be a Z. Documented no less. A lot of them don't have original engines, but that decreases its value.
I'll say that it sounds like a possibility, but it all depends on condition and what you want. It will never be all original and the engine parts are hard to find and $$.
But everyone's point about the body is the key. If you are going to do this, get a quote on getting the body fixed. And put the full 1/4's on it, not the POS partials.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 03:31 PM
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if you decide to do this project and are looking for a dz302 post your time-frame and I can probably help you with a fresh motor hat to pan. i am about a good days drive from UT. just a matter of economics...
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 00, 06:28 PM
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You didn't say if the car is rusty. What color is it supposed to be ? Does it have a console ? Guages ? Cowl induction ?Tach ? 12 bolt Posi ? How is the subframe? How is the interior ? power front disc brakes ? Prices for 69 Z28's have skyrocketed. Good Z's are bringing in the mid 20's. The car you are looking at is a X33 with Protecto plate, maybe other paperwork, orig. trans, maybe orig. rear. Even with no engine that car will always be a Z. Yes it will always be cheaper to buy a done car but for some people a project is the only way to own a Z. Can you afford a better car ? Can you do the work ? Depending on what is there, the parts are worth several thousand.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 00, 02:59 AM
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Its hard to say without actually seeing the car but I have to go with Kurt and Clill on this. Kurts right, It will never have the original engine but it does have documentation of which most don't have. At least there is no doubt its a Z. If you do it and spend the money at least do it right an forget about repro quarters. No point in sinking thousands into a car and putting on $50 quarters. Clill is right about needing much more info. Ok its dented everywhere. If there is no rust but dented everywhere I'll take it. If its rusty and dented everywhere move on. What do the frame rails look like, floors? You don't want to buy or pay someone to replace frame rails. Even if you can do it yourself do you want to. What EXACTLY does the car need is the real question. Everybody's response could be right or all wrong. You are the only one here that seen the car so we have to go by what you tell us, or didn't tell us. A more complete examination of the car would have to be done to see if its worth it. What kind of work can you do yourself compared to paying someone is another question. Are you buying to keep for many years to make money on.These questions come up all the time here but they are so hard to answer. Let us know what you decide
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 00, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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Hey THANKS ALL for replying, I went to look at it again. The guy said he knows where the engine is, I am trying to get a hold of the guy. It's not rusty, well the rear quarters are from where the tires threw stuff on them. But everything else is good, floors,trunk, etc. He's got in a garage all this time. I took the rear cover off and it has 411's and posi, console, guages, interior needs replaced, has tach, he said 15 x 8 wheels is in another garage. oh yea power disks, manual steering, tilt wheel. he said he would throw in some 68 parts too. And yea, I will being alot of the work myself, and my mechanic and body friends.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 00, 04:14 AM
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Now we're talking. Its getting better. If he finds the original motor, buy it or let me know where it is. (depending how much extra the original motor will cost you) You can sell the non original parts like the motor and 68 parts to save money and its good you can do most of the work. It may not be a bad deal after all especially of you have been under the car and it still looks good. If you buy it send me a email with the 68 parts you get. I'm always looking.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 00, 07:30 PM
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I felt like I was fighting the tide with saying it may be worth it.

I would be interested in the #'s off of the car and the POP. I'll also confirm the #'s for you. You can post them here, send me an email ([email protected]), or (preferred option) submit it at http://www.camaros.org/researchdata.shtml .

Thanks!

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