why my camaro smokes? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 00, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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HI. I'M THE OWNER OF 90'CAMARO RS.BUT WITHOUT ANY REASON IT SMOKES. IT DOESN'T SMOKE WHEN I DRIVE IT. IT SMOKES WHEN I TURN THE ENGINE ON. IS IT SENSOR PROBLEM, OR WHAT?
COULD I USE ANY CHAMICALS TO STOP THE SMOG? COULD I BUY THEM SOMEWHERE?
THANK YOU.

[This message has been edited by rave4 (edited 04-12-2000).]
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 02:15 AM
 
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What color is the smoke?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 02:59 AM
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i'm guessing it's valve guide seals. Our 89 Firebird needs them, according to my dad, because i'll puff out a cloud of smoke when we start it.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 03:13 AM
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Thats a sign of bad valve seals. The oil seeps past the seals into the combustion chamber and burns up on start.

Usually a sign of high mileage or poor maintainence but not always. Replacing the seals may or may not solve the problem, may have to redo the heads, new guides, seals recondition valves etc. Otherwise its a easy job for a experienced tech to replace the seals but you need specialty tools.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 05:35 AM
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I had the same problem on my 88 IROC and I solved it by changing valve seals. Get the good unbrella type seals. You can change the seals with the heads on the motor, the only difficult part is the air holding tool. The passenger side is very tight, and you need a right angle attachment to get the air holder in(At least I did). I would try this before anything else. I had the tools, and the seals cost me 16 dollars. Good Luck
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 07:34 AM
 
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Try some nico-gas, worked for my car, hasen't smoked since. But it still has cravings for the real thing in bars and stuff.
www.geocities.com/macgse/68CamaroRS.html
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 00, 08:15 AM
 
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mike df80 was right, replace the valve guide seals first with teflon pc seals.
unless you wan't to remove the heads and have the guides replaced. replacing the seals might take some time even with the right tools due to the limited space, ( I'm a G.M. tech, been there!)
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 00, 08:54 AM
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A cheap "in the field" way to keep the valves from falling ito the engine:

1. Buy a long length of nylon rope. Use ONLY nylon, not cotton or hemp or anything that will leave trash in the cylinder.
2. Remove spark plug.
3. Turn crank until the piston is nearing TDC on the intake stroke (both valves will be closed).
4. Feed rope into cylinder thru spark plug hole.
5. Turn crank until it won't turn anymore. At thios point, the rope will be pushed into the combusion chamber and will hold the valves in place.

6. Remove retainer, spring, old seal, etc. and install new seals.

Granted, this is not the best way to do this, but I admit to using it in a pinch.

------------------
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 00, 10:13 AM
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and tie a knot in the rope so it wont fall into the cyl.

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MCC #017
www.clark.net/pub/chevelle/mcc.htm
the bitterness of poor quality remains, long after the sweetness of the low price is forgotten
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 00, 10:23 AM
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Good one, Greatly, you beat me to it!!!



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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 00, 11:32 AM
tim
 
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you might be lucky and have stoped up return holes in your heads.this will keep oil up there and when you cut the engine off some will drain onto the pistons by your valve seals,when you pull your vavle covers off if oil runs out this a good sign.probaly is seals but thought i might mention this.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 00, 05:08 AM
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Everyone else is on the right track. It is probably a valve seal problem. But, if a sensor was bad, it would set a code which would cause your check engine light to go on. If this has happened, I would recommend either getting a scan tool and find out what code it is setting. You can normally buy a tool for less than 30 dollars, which fits into your aldl connector, which is if I'm not mistaken, right below the steering column. Different cars are located differently. Then if you don't have a service manual, I would get one. If you get a GM manual, it would give you step by step instructions on how to troubleshoot and repair. It would also probably show step by step instructions on how to change valve seals. If you don't feel comfortable doing this job, especially, computer work, a GM dealership would probably charge you less than 50 dollars to hook up to their computer. When I worked at a Chev dealership it was only about 25 to 30 dollars. I hope I have been of some help.
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