How do i keep my 68 camaro from giving so much in the rear?? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Location: austin, tx us
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I just lowered my car all the way around and in the rear i used dearched springs. I have 255/60s in the back on 15x8 rims with 4" bs. Everytime i hit a big dip they rub and its annoying. It only happens on the right side too. Im about to put 17x9.5" wheels on the back with 275/40's and i dont want them to rub so what can i do to keep my rear suspension from giving so much? I have stock shocks on there, would it help to put stiffer ones on there? Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 00, 03:57 PM
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Best shocks for this might be the Bell Tech Nitro Drop units. These are double acting, dampen movement in both in and out, and will help stop the bottoming and tire rubbing. About 35 bucks each, if available for the Camaro.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 00, 07:54 AM
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a possible solution is one borrowed from the 4 wheelers. if you are bottoming out from a weakened spring, you can use a flat piece of bar stock to help. take a flat piece of steel same width as your springs and at least the same thickness and add it to the bottom of your current spring stack. the new "spring" should extend both directions somewhere between 5 to 10 inches from where the current springs arch up. you can contact a spring/suspension company in your town and tell them you want a "helper" spring. it will increase your spring rate and your ride will be stiffer but it should help you keep from bottoming out. Rancho makes a helper spring for most trucks and if you have to I am sure you could modify one to work for your application.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 00, 08:10 AM
 
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I had a 79 z28 and this was also a problem!
i made a set of rebound bumper stops to solve this problem.

mebe this idea will help???
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 00, 11:53 AM
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The first order of business is to look real close and figure out where the interference is. It may just be a portion of the lip that needs trimmed or the rear end may be off center or you may need more or less BS. Then, I'd measure very carefully to make sure the new wheels and tires will fit right before you buy them. You may have to consider another size or brand of wheel or BS. Finally, keep in mind that you need your suspension to work properly. Don't crutch a bad fit on the tires by stiffening up the suspension so they won't rub! This will only lead to other problems. Take a little time to fit the tires and wheels properly and then have fun driving it without cringing over every bump in the road.

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 00, 05:16 AM
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Rocky - ordinarily I would agree not to stiffen a suspension without a specific purpose. But, if you notice he used de-arched springs. Have you ever done custom suspension work? When he used de-arched springs he has already softened the spring rate (and lowered his car) and is now experiencing bottoming out due to this. I have played with many a suspension on 4-bys, race 2 wheel trucks, and leaf suspension cars. A helper spring is a "cheaper" alternative to a new spring pack and acutally wont be noticed until a "bottom out" situation is encountered. It will not affect the normal ride chararcteristics too much. Another area it will help is high speed cornering and swaying. It has been around for a long long time as an alternative to the problem he mentions. I would suggest he go to a spring shop near him and talk to them. There are a variety of spring add-ons (or altogether replacements) that may be of use to him. Just a thought.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 00, 07:52 AM
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I may have mis-interpreted the problem, but the way I read the post is that one tire rubs on bumps - not both tires and certainly not the jarring impact you get from bottoming out the rear end against the frame. Therefore, it sounds like the suspension is not typically bottoming out and the problem comes back to the fit of the tire - and at that only on one side.

When you lower your car you are basically raising the tires up into the wheelwell so it's important that you make sure you're not running into anything. It only makes sense to retain as much suspension travel as possible. But, even if you stiffen up the suspension significantly you need to expect that under some circumstances you will experience full travel - so if anything is in the way you'll have interference. To make matters worse, it's likely that with a very stiff suspension you will only have full travel at high speed and big bumps - exactly the worse time to have a tire hit something unfriendly.

And, yes - I've done a lot of suspension mods over the years on everything from sand rails, dirt bikes, and 4 wd trucks to slalom racers and canyon carvers. Not an expert but I am generally familiar with the concepts.

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 00, 06:37 PM
 
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You might also try a stiffer shock..One that has a stiffer setting on the compression stroke,it will not allow as much flex in the suspension. Koni makes an excellent shock,or look at an adjustable unit from any good manufacturer. The other suggestions are also good ones. I assume by right side you mean pass side not drivers correct? How does it do with a passenger?? You might also see where it is rubbing on the car,you might be able to slightly massage the area depending on where it rubs. Hope this helps..
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 00, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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well, right now i have the new stock KYB shocks on there, so new firmer shocks might be what i need. When i have a passenger, its even worse. what shocks would you reccomend and where can i get them? I found out last night that my rear end is not even. it sits 1/2" to the right, which is the side it rubs slightly on. Here is the main question- if i run a 17x8" wheel and 255/40/17 tires i know ill bring it inside the wheel well and not have anything to worry about rubbing anymore, but if i run 17x9.5s they will be just as wide as my tires now, the only difference is that the 17" wheels will be an 1.5" shorter. Right now my tires are 1" from the wheelwell, and the new tires and wheels would be 2.5" from the wheelwell, do you think that that extra 1.5" will be enuf that it wont compress all the way down on bumps?? Let me know what ya think......17x9.5" and take the chance or go with the 8" wheels??
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 00, 05:56 AM
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If I remember correctly from the time when I fit my tires/wheels - the width inside the wheelwell from the inside of the lip to the inner wheelhouse surface was right around 10". Almosy any tire on a 9.5" wheel will have a sidewall width of at least 10" - which would be a very tight fit even if you trim the inner lip for some minimal clearance.

Regarding the height difference - if you drop 2-1/2" in overall diameter, don't forget that only half of that is in the radius (from the axle center to the outside of the tire tread)

One other thought - I have found that on my car the inner lip is not a neatly trimmed edge. It sticks out unevenly and I've had to bend those portions of it up for clearance. My car is going into the bodyshop next week for touch up and buffing so I'm going to have them trim the lip back and roll it up also. Hmmmm....maybe then I can go up one size on my tires?

------------------
Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed; '99 HD Road King Classic
www.geocities.com/sdenning1
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