RS headlights, electric or vaccum? which is better? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hi, im a presently putting together a 68 Camaro. It is originally an RS/SS car so i would obviously like to retain the hideaway headlights. Ive heard some real horror stories about the vaccum setup be plauged with problems.Is the electric motor set up any more reliable?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 09:00 AM
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I'm interested in the same topic. I was told that no one is selling/shipping the vacuum motors anymore because they don't work, although I haven't called to confirm.

This is the first I've heard about an electric option available.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 09:15 AM
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You would have to retrofit the '67 electric onto your '68 or fab up something on your own... All the catalogs hav actuators and the other parts to rebuild/restore your existing... I have heard some talk of the aftermarket stuff not working very well but haven't heard that the parts arn't being sold any longer... There's a lot of information on this stuff within this site, search the various forums.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 09:56 AM
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I saw the vacuum system for my 69 but i dont know about the 68!!! So i dont know i know you can buy the vacuum system from cause i got one for my car!!! Good luck on findin one.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 06:39 AM
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I wonder, since the 67 and 68 are SO close to body style and setups with parts, I wonder if you could just get eth 67 RS kit and put it on the 68, everything pretty much looks the same, but the only stinker would be the light switch because 67 electric VS 68 Vaccume

Chris's 67 RS can be seen at
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 06:47 AM
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I think GM changed to the vacum system because it was more reliable. The vacum system can be opened by hand without damaging the system where as the electrical can freeze up in cold conditions and it can be damaged if you try and open the grills by hand.
There is some info on this subject in
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 07:14 AM
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I just pulled up Shadows old post on this. Might be useful. Check it out if you desire. pdq67

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 11:55 AM
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GM went to a vacuum system because the plastic gears would strip when folks tried to manually open or close the doors. Today's reproduction motors have metal gears so its a lot more reliable.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 04:09 PM
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I must of gotten lucky with mine. They are electric, (67). My car was totaled in 92. I had to replace everything except 1 headlamp bucket. Actually, the relays & limit switchs survived the hit surprisingly. I had to splice some wires back together on passenger side. My doors work perfect every time now. I'm still using the old relays & limit switchs and I don't know how old they were before the wreck. And this car was hit so bad it broke both motor mounts & tranny mount. Separated the upper A arm from the spindle and shoved the door back 1/2". I wish I could attach a pic of the car after the crash. I don't know what I did right, but I don't have the problems you guy's are having with the doors. I don't know much about the 68 & 69 vac. system, but I do like the fact that a 67 electric system leaves the engine compartment a little bit cleaner looking.

67 SS 396,4-sp
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 01, 05:03 AM
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I have had to replace one of my 2 motors, but the elctrical system itself still works. The motor was $95. If you go with electric make sure the arm is tight to the motor and that the limit switches are properly adjusted. The motor will burn out if it continues running because the limit switch didn't stop it.

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