Pertronix Ignition Change Over ?? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 01, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Rich
 
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I'm thinking about changing out my points and going to the Pertronix set up. Anybody use this set up ??
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 01, 04:53 PM
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This has been discussed a lot. You should do a search in this forum. In general, people are happy with the Pertronix set up. As always, though, a few folks didn't like it.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 01, 07:14 PM
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I have no idea if he setup a website yet, but for another alternative try a search for Dave's small body hei on yahoo or google.

I've heard many positive comments about his distributors.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 01, 01:40 AM
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Rich,
I just put one on my 67 and really like it. It starts easier and runs smother than it ever did with points. My was the type that does not have the mag pickup though, so you have to turn the key and wait a little before cranking the engine. Other than that it is real nice and easy to install (I did not have to remove the distributor).
Daniel

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97 V6 5-speed Coupe (work car ordered new)
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 01, 02:23 AM
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I've got one in my 69 427, but have not driven it, yet...just ran at 2500 RPM to break it in. Friend has one on his 69 DZ, and he has had some problems- not necessarily the Petronics system. Anyhow, he called petronics, and they told him he probably was not getting 12 volts to the coil, probably 7 or 8 volts.Said that was quite common on older cars. He suggested running a jumper straight from the battery. My friend tried this, and now it runs like a scalded dog.

Anyone know how to ensure 12 volts to the coil, and still look stock?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 01, 04:09 AM
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The white cloth insulated wire going to the coil positive side is a resistance wire. The white is usually discolored with age. To convert to a full 12v. you need to replace this wire with a regular non resistance one. I used a Dave's small body HEI distributor setup (http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com) which looks fully stock and works great. This is a true HEI setup and you will need to replace the spark plug wires. I replaced my resistance wire with a wire I bought at the local appliance parts store. It's a high temp white cloth insulated (like used in ovens and tosters) and it matches the original perfectly for looks. The resistance wire only needs to be replaced from the coil back to the firewall block. It's really not that hard to do, but the bennefits are great. Good luck.
If you still want to go with the Pertronix, I have a new one (part #1181) that I was going to use before I decided to go with the Dave's small body setup. I'll sell it for $40.00 including shipping. Let me know if you want it.

[This message has been edited by kurt6325 (edited 07-10-2001).]
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 01, 07:43 AM
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www.davessmallbodyheis.com This might make it easier for you.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 01, 12:07 PM
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i just changed my points out and put in the petronix igniter kit that uses your stock dist. i had limited space with my 454 and couldnt run a standard hei. it worked out well and hasnt skipped a beat. also running msd blaster 2 coil and msd wires.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 01, 04:00 PM
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i just replaced one at work on a 78 u-haul(f#%d) when i went to get a new one they needed the #s off of it turned out it was from 1978 not a bad run,i also found out this was a standard thing for u-haul to replace fords electronic ign. with a pertronix unit i guess they got tired of changing control moduls all the time.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 01, 01:59 AM
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Gary
 
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Kurt,
Thanks for your input. I put a volt meter on mine. 12 volts at the firewall connector, and 7 volts at the coil. Voltage drop of 5 volts in about 4 feet.
What is the purpose of dropping the voltage, in the first place. i'm sure the General had it's technical reasons.
Are there any potential drawbacks to converting back to a full 12 volts on the coil?
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 01, 04:29 AM
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I'm not exactly sure why the points style ignition didn't want a full 12v. I'm sure someone on this site could explain this. If your going with an HEI ignition, then you do have to have the full 12v. going to the coil. The small yellow wire that goes from the coil to the starter solenoid must be kept or your engine won't start. This wire is the only means of voltage to the coil during "START". The wire from the firewall to the coil is only live when the ignition is in "RUN".

If you don't want to completely remove the original resistance wire between the firewall and the coil, you can simply disconnect it and run another wire along side of it. Hope this helps.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 01, 05:54 AM
 
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I utilized Pertronix for a couple of years and began to have unusual total timing issues. I changed to a MSD 85551 distributor, 6 A box, and SS Blaster Coil. MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 01, 05:55 AM
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The reason for the resistance wire/ballast resistor is to lower input voltage to the Kittering ignition system to save the ignition points, less current flow across the contacts, points don't burn-up as fast.

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph


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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 01, 11:53 AM
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Thanks, guys. I think I'll change my wire while it's still easy to get at. I like the idea of the appliance wire. I'll tell my friend with the Z/28, too.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 01, 05:55 PM
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Stock coils will burn out with the full 12V on them. Make sure your coil is rated for 12V if you bypass the ballast resistor. A lot of aftermarked "performance" coils still require the ballast resistor. HEI systems should NOT have a ballast resistor.



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then: '67 coupe; '88 IROC; '95 Z28
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