Vibration damper - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 00, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Drake
 
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Question

Having never owned a 327 before,How do you get the vibration damper back on?I admitt,I have not done this for a long time,but I could swear on a 350 the end of the crank was threaded so you can pull the damper back on,Or am I not remembering right?I suppose I could put a block of wood over it and tap it on.Whats the trick here?What is the "proper" way.
P.S. My Chiltons manual even says to pull it on with an installation tool,how?
Thanks

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 00, 08:09 AM
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Gene
 
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I don't think all SBCs have the damper bolt. They added it sometime in the late 60s. If you don't have the hole, obviously you can't "pull" the balancer back on.

I've also heard of the board trick you mentioned. Also, don't use a steel hammer, use a brass one. Steel creates negative vibes, brass absorbs them. Just make sure it's on squarely and go slow. Hit only the center, not the outer ring.

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Hugger Orange & white 69 Camaro with supercharged 350, Tremec TKO, and 3.73 12-bolt
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 00, 12:54 PM
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hello,

I had the same issue last weekend, I too had pulled my balencer off to notice "hmm theres no damn bolt" SO I went to the local junkyard and got one from a old smallblock 350 or 400, it fits fine. but I learned a old trick for the balancer, DONT beat it , you could warp it if it is the old rubber lined one.. BOIL it in hot water, the metal expands and makes it easier to fit into the keyway., when you get it on as far as the ol arms will allow, install your bolt and washer from the junkyard. then snug it up the rest of the way. taking note to brace the engine somewhere to keep the crank from turning while you tighten. this will pull the balancer on straight and true...

Good luck!

C.E
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 00, 02:19 PM
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There are tools available for installing your damper. Check with your local parts stores to see if you can rent one. Many of them say to use the hammer/wood method, but unless you can support the back end of the crankshaft all of that hammering force goes into the thrust bearing and cap. The tool is the reverse of a puller. It will have a threaded shaft, bearing, and nut system. The threaded shaft fully screws into the crankshaft snout allowing full thread engagement, and the bearing/nut assy. pushes the damper on. I used a high-grade threaded shaft, nut and washer to press mine on making sure that the nut was spinning on the washer, not the washer spinning on the damper.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 00, 03:56 PM
 
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Most of the early cranks that came without a damper bolt weren't drilled or threaded and so just buying a bolt and washer won't work.
Obviously the installation tool won't work either!
The only way I know of to install the damper in this case is with a piece of two by four layed flat across the front of the damper and a 2 pound "persuader". It's best to stand the motor on end on the floor with the rear of the crank resting on a block of wood on the floor (to protect the crank flange and support the crank) because it is possible to damage the thrust bearing. of course you should make sure that the two by four only touches the center of the damper and not the ring.
I have never heard the hot water trick but I suppose it might help, I wouldn't get the damper any hotter than that though!
A good machine shop can drill the front of the crank as well, if it's out of the motor!
A cou;e of other things, never use a damper if the rubber is swelled outside of the steel
and never ever ever soak a damper in solvent or hot tank it.
Art Rasmussen
Art Rasmussen Design and Fabrication, Inc. WWW.HOTRODDINGTODAY.COM
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 00, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Drake
 
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Thanks you guys,Carl and Chris,the reason I could not figure this out is because there are NO threads on the end of the crank!I guess I did'nt mention that in my post.But yes the light heating of the damper should help.Maybe I'll ice down the crank first also,this is what I had to do to get the piston pins on the rods,for my truck engine.I might have the crank out anyway, so I'll look into getting it threaded,if I do.Thanks for the info.

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[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-03-2000).]
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 00, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Drake
 
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Well it looks as though I don't have a choice!I was just about to put my cam degree wheel on...DUH!No threads to bolt it to the crank.I guess the guy I bought the car from didn't care about degreeing the cam that he had put in.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 00, 12:03 PM
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Pounded on several over the years. Wouldn't hurt to put pulley bolts in to protect the threaded holes a little be, they tend to get beat on. I just use a ball peen hammer and tap it in, not real hard. It takes a while, but it will go.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 00, 04:08 PM
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I believe some of the cranks are drilled but not tapped. Does yours have a hole but no threads ? If so I think you can tap new threads into it pretty easily. Just make sure you buy the correct small block balancer bolt and tap it to that size.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 00, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Wink

Yes,it is drilled.I am going to tap this myself with the crank still installed.I decided this should be easier then pulling the crank out.That would be my last resort.I don't really have a reason to pull it at this point.

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[This message has been edited by 67drake (edited 03-04-2000).]
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 00, 06:12 AM
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Yes, some years for the chevy small block,the harmonic balencer was just pressed on. That changed when they had problems with the balencers flying off. You can use a 350 balencer on your 327 but do not use one from a 400 sm block. The 400 was externally balenced crank while the 350/327/302/283 was internally balenced on the crank. You should not use a 400 flywheel/flexplate on an internally balenced motor as well. The motor will not be balenced properly. Sort of like a cealing fan with weight added to one of the fins. Just think what that will do to an engine at 4000 rpm.
If you build a 383 "stroker" you will have to use the balencer and the flywheel/flexplate from the 400 (thats the crank from the 400 thats used for the stroker)

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 00, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info,guys.

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