How hard is it to put a new plastic window in conv? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old May 17th, 01, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Ken
 
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I was just told I need a whole new top but I want to wait until I've had all the body work and new paint job, next spring at the earliest. My tops not that bad but you can't see thru the window at all. The upholsterer said he doesn't even have to take the whole top off the car to put a window in (but he doesn't want to mess with mine because he says it's too bad?). Anyway to get me thru till next year I was thinking about doing it myself. They're only $40. Otherwise I continue to drive it only when I'm sure it ain't gonna rain!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old May 17th, 01, 07:10 AM
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Winch, I have replaced the window in my 66 Pontiac Tempest and the Camaro looks the same (I haven't had to take any of my tops apart yet). The window is a separate section that is attached to the the rear most bow and the tack strip under the pinchweld molding. This is from memory, so bear with me...

1. with top up, put a 2X4 on edge between top and windshield header.

2. with rear seat pulled, remove well liner to remove bolted on tack strips.

3. Each section of the top (well liner, window and top) is stapled to the tack strips. you have to take the staples out. If you can, do not take the staples out that hold the top on! That way you don't have to restrech the top again. If they are all stapled together, keep the top in the same place and put some staples in as you remove the other staples to preserve top alignment.

4. once you've separated the window from the tack strips, take the little chrome tips off the last bow. Then you can open up the bow cover strip on top of the top and expose the staples (or maybe screws) there. Take those out.

5. if the staples hold all the layers then just slide the window out. otherwise, take the staples out of each layer (window layer is the last one.

6. putting the window in is the reverse, except you have to make sure the window is aligned (can't see any fabric in the window hole) before you staple it and you have to tighten the top with the tack strips bolt on to make sure there are no wrinkles.

7. Have a few beers!

I have the Fisher body manual, that has a chapter about the tops and aligning. I can send you some faxes. I only can read me email at night after the kids are asleep, so it may take a day or so to respond. Kevin

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69' SS-350 ragtop, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
69'(Hugger Orange -originally, Burgundy now) Z-21 ragtop 327/PG, Driver
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old May 17th, 01, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, thanks Kev, that doesn't sound too bad at all. I think it'll be worth $40. I'll give it a try.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old May 17th, 01, 09:28 AM
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Winch, The word I would use to describe this would be "tedious" not "easy" Pulling all those staples while fighting with the fabric, arkwardly leaning over the back seat partition and getting cramped is not "fun". Figure the better part of a weekend to do it.

Also you should to some trial fits of a taut top (with a couple of staples and the tack strips bolted loosely) to see if there are any places where the window or top is too tight, too loose or has a wrinkle.

If your top is in fragile condition all this work on it may have it rip along the old staple holes. Just be careful and don't rush it. Also don't forget to put the well liner back on after the window. You'll need some spray contact cement to glue the well liner to the seat partition, to keep it from shifting. Good Luck! Tell us how you made out. Feel free to email me any other questions or to get that chapter. Kevin

------------------
69' SS-350 ragtop, M20, 3.55 posi. Totally Disassembled & in boxes (I'm working on it!)
69'(Hugger Orange -originally, Burgundy now) Z-21 ragtop 327/PG, Driver
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