Heater Control assembly - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 00, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Hatboro, PA
Posts: 1

Great site, first time post. I took the heater control assembly out of the car. The one lever was broken. I almost aways buy my parts from Classic Ind. Classic said they will not have until the summer (MID)? They also said everyone else will tell you the same story? Can anyone tell me where to check for this? Thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 00, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
Posts: 40

Yeah I would look at a local swap meet, I found mine there and paid about half the cost of a new control. It only required a cleaning and was as good as new. If you cant wait I would try National Parts depot they have 4 warehouses to serve you. The phone number is !-800-521-6104 for Michigan depot, They also have outlets in N Carolina Florida and California. The cost is 120.00 for 67 and 68 for 69's its 90.00. another place to try is year one in Georgia there phone number is 1-800-932-7663 this should help out. Garry.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 02:31 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dtown PA
Posts: 820


since your in the PA area, just wait a month, the spring Carlisle show is April 27-30 , its Camaro heaven, you can get anything, you may be able to find one used Or new for less...

I have the same issue on my 67 R/S , the heater controls are junk potmetal , mine are all intact except for the temperature control , it snapped at the base. I used some Epoxy on mine and sanded it down, it works, and you cant see anything anyway since its under the dash...
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 03:42 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 503

One of my levers was broken too. I took a small flat piece of aluminum about 2 inches long,cut it the width of the lever, and put a small screw on each side of the break. It hasn't broken yet, but I don't use it much. Maybe this will work for you at least until you can get a new one.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 00, 05:01 AM
Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 217


You can probably fix the lever and save yourself $50-80. Give us some details on which is broken, and where. I just fixed mine a few weeks ago and it works like new. Steve R had a great method that worked on mine. My fan lever busted off about 1/4" down and I thought I was scr#%ed. But after disassembling it, I was able to save it. I ground down the remaining 1/4 stub right down to the flat slider part. Once I made that whole area flat, I cleaned it up. I then made a new lever by making a 90 degree bend in the scrap piece of sheet metal and cut out a new lever. Then I just mated the flat part of the new lever to the slider on the control panel. I used a very high quality metal epoxy to glue it. Now, it's like new. It's important to dribble lots of light weight machine oil into the cables so they operate smoothly, that's why mine broke in the first place. Let us know if you have more ?'s.

Shawn Peterson
1969 Z28, 406SB

[This message has been edited by Shawn (edited 03-14-2000).]
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 00, 05:24 AM
Join Date: Aug 1999
Posts: 296

Shawn, How difficult was it to disassemble the unit? I didn't spend much time checking it out, but I couldn't figure out how to remove the front bezel piece without breaking the tabs. I've got two, one with a broken lever, and one thats looks and operates good but has a broken piece off of the black plastic that the lever slides up and down on. I'd like to build one good one from the two. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 00, 08:46 AM
Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 217

Jim- it's not too bad. I figured I had to replace my whole panel, so I had nothing to lose by tearing it apart. In the end I repaired it and now it works just like new. The silver knobs slide off with some effort. Then I used a screw driver and a vice grip to pry the tabs back. They are cast, so they may crumble some. Even though one or two of them got a little chewed up, I was able to separate it from the rest of the assembly with the tabs mostly intact. If you do one side, you free up the bezel enough to just slide it off without have to mess with the tabs on the other side. This gives you the necessary access to the rest of the panel. I was then able to repair the broken lever. When I put the front bezel back on I was able to push the tabs back a little bit. I was a little bit loose, but the remaining tab stubs generally held it in place. I just used a few dabs of 5 min epoxy in each tab locations to secure it. Now, it's bullet proof. Just as strong as before, and absolutely no indication that it was ever broken. If you want more details on how I fixed the levers, go ahead and e-mail me.

Shawn Peterson
1969 Z28, 406SB
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 00, 02:40 PM
Join Date: Aug 1999
Posts: 296

Thanks Shawn!! I was worried about breaking the cast tabs, didn't think about metal epoxy when done. I'll try it this weekend.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 00, 03:18 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: houston, tx usa
Posts: 30

while on the topic, i thought id ask,
i have a/c and have a vacuum leak at the heater/ac control. I can hear it right at the control.
Anyone know the fix?
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