LT-1 swap information - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old May 21st, 01, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Location: San Bernardino, CA
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Question

Well to all of you out there that didnt know i am going to try and get ahold of an LT-1 and drop it in my 69. I just had a few questions to ask for those who have done the swap. Did you have to change the oil pan on the stock Lt-1 or does it fit in a first gen? I just pulled my 350 only to find a few smooth spots were my 6qt oil oan had been rubbing. Another thing, because the LT-1 flows coolant the opposite direction of a regular small block, what radiator did you use? Will a 93-97 camaro/firebird radiator fit in a first gen? And another thing. Can you use the A/C stuff off of a complete LT-1 or do i have to use my 69's stock A/C or buy vintage air. ok thats about all i have to say for now. thanks for all the help. Oh I almost forgot i finally got my brother to get off his lazy butt and help me post some pictures of my car, it should be up soon. I have 2 years worth of stuff to show you guys! thanks again.

Justin
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old May 21st, 01, 06:55 PM
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Well, let me start by saying, good choice. First:
Yes, the stock oil pan will clear your chassis fine.
2nd- The coolant doesn't flow in an opposite direction, it has "reverse cooling." this means the coolant goes to the heads before it goes to the block. You can use a standard 69 radiaitor with electric fans. I used a Be Cool aluminum radiator for my 68.
The only way to use the LT1 A/C is to notch the frame, or to use corvette accessories. The compressor sits too low on the Fbody version of the LT1. Switching to a Vintage Air or stock 69 compressor will not fix this problem. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Tyler

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old May 21st, 01, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks man! after seeing your car i fell in love with the whole LT-1 swap. I have been following your T-56 installation kit on protouring.com, by the way how is that doing? if I could get my hands on somthing like that I would without a doubt change my car from auto to stick. keep up the good work! I'm sure I will be asking you many things along the way. What is a good price for a used engine and trans. I called a place here is California called Rancho Chevy Recycling, the guy told me $2,500 for a complete setup I'm not sure what tranny comes with it but the engine is complete with computer and all that stuff. I always see aluminum heads for LT-1/LT-4 on ebay do you trust those parts? because an iron head version is much cheeper. Is there a HP difference? Another thing I have noticed is a lot of 1995 Lt-1's are on ebay. Seems like everyone has a 95 is there somthing wrong with that year? i heard the car had some pin in it or somthing like that. thanks a bunch

Justin
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 04:16 AM
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Thanks for the kind words on the car. The kit is finished, and i'm installing one into a 68 to make sure the bugs are worked out.
2500 is a good price, and the aluminum headed ones have a bunch more power. The 95 are up a bunch beacuse they are the last OBD1 cars. Good for tuning, and swapping. Keep those questions coming!
Tyler

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 05:55 AM
 
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Has anybody tried the Caprice/Impala accessory setup in a Camaro? I think it's different from the Camaro setup, and it's definitely not the same as the Corvette setup. I'm considering this swap but I MUST have AC on my car in Texas. I'd rather not notch the frame, and the Vintage Air is another big expense, so it would be great to use the new AC unit with the engine. Sounds like the Corvette setup might be the only way though.

------------------
Ben - '67 RS/SS350 - Mustangs, meet your NemeSS
"There's an 'e' in Ben, but there's NO 'E' IN CAMARO!!" (no, I'm not an English major....but my wife is! )
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 08:23 AM
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Ben,
The 1997 LT1 from the Z28 in my '67,and the factory LT1 that was in my '96 Impala had the accessories in the same places.

It's either notch the frame, go 'Vette setup, or check on the price of March's setup....altho i think it's similar setup as the Vette.

The differences in the Impala LT1 and the Camaro LT1 (besides the obvious) is the way the deck is machined and the crank pulleys.

When I first did my swap, I wanted to bring over my Paxtom blower from the Impala...yikes.pulleys were different, and the fronts of the blocks had different dimensions.... couldn't just line things up


David
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 09:23 AM
 
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Ooooh, that blower on the LT1 in the '67 would've been sweet!! Thanks for all the info. I didn't know the block from the Impala/Caprice had those other differences. Can you take a short block from a Camaro and put the Vette brackets and pulleys on it? If you use the Vette setup and the Vette factory AC how do the controls work? I know the Vintage Air system is designed so it works with the original AC controls in the '67. If you use the Camaro LT1 with the AC delete pulley and then add Vintage Air, where do you put the compressor? High on the passenger side? How do the belt/pulleys/brackets work then? Sorry about all the questions!
Thanks,
Ben
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 10:45 AM
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Now now....just cuz the Paxton didn't fit doesn't mean I don'thave a blower


As far as your Vintage air q's.I have no idea.

David
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 07:52 PM
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This is from an old post, may or may not help.
Larry

From: Ft Worth, Tx
USA
Registered: Aug 2000
posted 04-02-2001 11:34 PM

Hello every body,

I didn't die I have just been busy trying to make a living.

Well The LT1 count is now at 13 done and more in line. I was in the process of doing a
Lt4, and super charger, hoping for + or - 600 HP. I thought I had bought a new crate LT4
and intake off of ebay, but it apears I have been burned. In case any one might be
interested this guy's name is Michael Kaido, from Marietta Ga.I really need to find him or
my $ 4350.00. If any one knows anything about ebay fraud please let my know.

Now for the LT1 stuff;

The Camaro LT1 AC compressor will not clear the cross member without mods. I like the
looks of the Camaro set up better. If you use the Vette set up the Comp is not a
problem, but not as good looks wise to me.

If you use the 4L60E tranny the 4 SPD cross member is most desireable, and GM still sell
them.Even with this cross member, there needs to be a mod done to clear the tranny
pan. This will be a cut out or heat and dent from near center out toward the pass
side.You will also need to extend the shelf on the cross member that the lower side of
the mount bolts to, about 1 1/2 inches. I have the part # 3912573, $55.75 list price from G.M. dealer.The tail
housing needs to be the one with the rear mount on it. These are from the Caprice, Buick
Roadmaster, ect. The 6 spd is much more involved, to long for here.

As for the harness, I redo the GM harness, as it is a good harness. I have not started
taking just the harness in to do without the car yet.I have also thought about making up
directions. I think most any one can do a harness with help, and besides time spent on
your streetrod is NOT money spent right. But if you have to go buy an after market
harness that's money spent. Buy your engine with a harness.

When looking for your engine be sure it has the harness, accesories, air intake elbow,
mass air flow meter, flywheel, starter, and electric smog pump if your car takes a smog
pump.

If you are going to run an auto tranny be sure your setup includes the 4L60E tranny that
came with it, or that the orig set up, and ECU are for the auto tranny.This stuff will just
all plug in from the orig harness, and the E tranny works super.

Not to put in an add here, but I can rebuild your tranny if you are in need.

The drive shaft will need shortened. Normally 2 1/2 inches but I always wait and measure
it.

The throttle is a snap. Try to get the orig throttle cable, cut the end button off the
cable, so you can pull a foot to 18 inches of the cable up inside the outter housing, when
this is done cut the whole thing off just a little past the back of the engine. Now feed
the inner cable out, and you should have plenty of slack to reach the orig throttle arm.
Get a cable clamp like goes on a Briggs throttle cable. You may need to drill the hole out
just a little where the cable goes through. a 7/16 Snap-On socket will just fit in the
butter fly to hold it wide open, be careful not to let it fall in. Now put the Briggs end on
the cable, hold the acc pedal down, and line the hole in the back side of the clamp up to
the hole in the acc arm. Now get a short screw go through the hole in the arm into the
back side of the clamp, be sure there is enough room for it to pivot, if not get a longer
screw. If it can't pivot it will break the cable.Cut off excess cable.

These engines have no fan pulley, or fan, they must use electric fan/fans. The ECU will
control them, but you must use relays. These engines also have reverse circulation on
the cooling system, this means the thermostat side goes to the LOWER hose.

I use an after market inline fuel pump, as all ele fuel pumps it must go as close to the
tank as possible. The ECU also controlls the fuel pump relay. As many think the oil
pressure sender must be involved in this circit, that is not true, the only thing that is
done here is that this is a back up incase the FP relay goes bad it will limp in.

Some fear the OBDII system because of check engine lights. The things that cause the
check engine light to come on have NO affect on the run, and drive ability of the engine.
Example; There is an O2 sensor behind the rear cat, emissions only (for 2002 emission
check)this stuff will have to work in places like Calif, but who wants to run a cat on a
first gen LT1 in Texas, not me.

If you are thinking of using headers, be SURE they are for D port heads. I think a square,
or round port header is worse than the stock LT1 manifolds.

Well there is more but it's late, and I'm tired. Ok ok I'll post the part #'s tomorrow, I don,t
have them here at home.

Happy reading, Larry
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 01, 09:04 PM
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I agree with Larry, except on the headers. After pulling off my hookers, we noticed that even though they are bigger than the ports, they flow unbeliveable if you can keep them selaed. Best way i've found is to use ARP header studs with Earls Pressure master gaskets. It's too much of a pain trying to use D port headers that were designed to fit into a totally different chassis. Just because they aren't D port, doesn't mean they won't flow right.
Tyler

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