Fender removal to get at the heater core - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bowmanville, ON Canada
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Question

- I'm trying to replace the heater core in my '69 sb no a/c. (I posted help yesterday & got very prompt results!)
-In order to get at a few nuts holding it on,(those of you that have done it, know what I mean) I need to remove the front passenger fender.
-I don't want to screw this up, (I've never done it before) so please let me know what EXACTLY I should be doing.
-Is it as simple as taking out the obvious 1/2 inch bolts around the fender and wheel well???

- I really appreciate the help fellas, you've all been great!
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 02:26 PM
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Monte,

I posted a response yesterday and suggested you do a search on this often talked about topic. There is a lot of info on this site.

To get you started:
Drain the coolant. Better yet, put in a coupling between the return and supply hoses, so that you can still run the motor. I got a plastic fitting from the hardware store when I did mine.

Remove the hood.
Remove the grill and front bumper.
Detached the bolts connecting the header panel, lower valance, and headlight assembly.
Unbolt the radiator core support.
Unbolt the fender extension and inner fender skirt.
Remove the rocker panel moulding, if present.
Unbolt the fender from the cowl and under the fender. Put masking tape on the edges of the fender, so you don't ding them upon re-assembly.

These are the major steps. Take your time. Don't rush it.

Replace the blower motor while your at it if its old. You don't want to do this again in October when the old fan squeaks.
Have someone help you remove the fender.
Take pictures along the way, so that you know how things came apart. Put bolts, etc. in ziplock bags and label the bags.



[This message has been edited by Silver69 (edited 05-07-2001).]
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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- Sorry silver. I did a search, and found different answers. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't making any mistakes!
- I'll let you know how I make out.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 03:50 PM
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Monte,

No problem. Some of the answers may be in other forums. The site does have crossover with posts not in the correct areas. Some people don't always look through all the topic forums, so a paint answer that you want may be in General Tech instead of Body Shop. It just takes a little more time to search.

Anyway, back to the heater core. You should have seen my wife's expression when I asked her to help me lift the hood off of the hinges.

It will go fine. Like I said, take your time. I was nervous to take it apart too. Everything went great.

Final tip: Slowly lower the hood after it's back on and check for alignment. No need to slam it down after a job well done on the heater core and smack the fenders or header panel.


[This message has been edited by Silver69 (edited 05-07-2001).]
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Silver! I'll be giving it a shot tommorow night. Keep your fingers crossed or me!

L8TR
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 03:58 PM
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Iíve never gone to quite the extent that Silver69 describes but after all that I put rivnuts or nutserts (whatever the brand calls them) in the stud holes, and take the studs out of the cover. That way the next time all I have to do is remove the bolts under the dash. Iíve seen several cars that someone just torched a really big hole in the inner fender and tacked the piece back in. In one instance though someone had used a die grinder to cut a rectangular piece out of the inner fender, took a panel flanger to the edges of the hole, cut another slightly larger piece from another inner fender to fit the flanged area, drilled 4 or 6 holes in the flanged area and fitted cover, put the clip on speed nuts on the inner fender, applied a factory type seam sealer and bolted the cover on. Iíve seen too many 67-69 Camaros to think it was factory, but the job looked it.

------------------
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 05:19 PM
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Why not take the inner fender loose,pull it down,and prop it open with a 2x4 and work through that way.It can be done.

Larry
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old May 7th, 01, 06:44 PM
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Monte,
I replaced the heater core on my 69 Z/28 last year and never removed the fender. The nuts holding the core in can be removed without much trouble( unless your car had A/C originally) I used some angled wrenches and scraped some knuckles, still alot easier than removing the fender. Good Luck. mx

------------------
69 Z/28 R/S : Daytona Yellow, Blk Vinyl Top, X33, DZ302, M21, 4.10 Posi, Blk Deluxe interior, 8k tach, console and guages, wood wheel and dash, ZL2 ducted hood, endura bumper.
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 02:52 AM
 
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You don't have to remove the fender to change the heater core unless you have AC. I just did it last week. Remove the 4 firewall bolts and pull it out from the inside of the car removing cables as you go. I just did it. good luck
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 04:05 AM
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I'm removing my a/c and I'm loosening th inner fender. Do you guys think this can be done/

------------------
Black 69 camaro
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 05:10 AM
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Jammer,

You must have a 67 or 68 because it can be done that way on those years. The 69s had some changes that made it more difficult to do.

I tried the 2x4 and bang the crap out of it method first. It got to a point where I didn't want to damage the inner skirt. I've read that this was the way a shop would do it back then. This was a winter project for me, so I had time on my side. My car is a BB, so maybe there are some differences there also with the tubes going through the middle of the box as opposed to the side.

[This message has been edited by Silver69 (edited 05-08-2001).]
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 05:23 AM
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Hey silver69 I'm deleting my a/c think I can get to the blower motor by getting the inner fender loose and out of the way?

------------------
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 06:01 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jammer:
You don't have to remove the fender to change the heater core unless you have AC. I just did it last week. Remove the 4 firewall bolts and pull it out from the inside of the car removing cables as you go. I just did it. good luck<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Only 4 bolts?

------------------
...Dennis
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 07:16 AM
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I have no experience with a '69, but a couple of thoughts that will help with any year. As mentioned above, get a box of zip lock bags and bag and label every part you remove. I got to the point where I was almost putting one bolt in one bag with a label so I knew exactly where it came from. Especially the fender bolts that have a certain number of shims under them. Now that I am reassembling, I am soooo glad I did. Also, when removing the hood (and any other parts that must align) take a bottle of white-out and paint around the hood hinges where they mount to the hood. Unlike using a pen or marker, you can paint the white-out right up next to the hinge leaving a perfect image to match up. And white-out is pretty easy to clean off with a toothbrush and some cleaner. Then you can match things up perfectly when you reassemble.
When working under the dash, I think it's worth the time to undo the four bolts that hold the passenger seat in place and remove it. It will give you alot more room to work.
If you want a temporary fix ('til you have time for this big project) you can take the heater hose and run it directly from the water pump to the block so it's a one-hose loop that by-passes the heater core. If you don't need the heater, this will allow you to drive the car. Mine was in this state when I bought it.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 10:58 AM
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I have done 3 heater cores in '69 SB no A/C in the last 2 years. Never removed fenders or anything like that. The nuts that are tucked behind the inner fender are a little tuff but can be gotten. Make sure that they are even there, if it was done before they probably dont have nuts on them any more, just the visible 5 or 6 may. Just my experience. Good Luck!

------------------
1969 RS-Z/28: Matching #'s DZ302, M20, 3.73, Tuxedo Black, Deluxe Black Interior, Factory Tach, Clock and Console Gauges, PS, Rear Defrost, Spoilers, ZL2 Special Ducted Hood.

1969 SS: Matching # 350/300, M20 4-spd, 3.55 12-bolt posi, Daytona Yellow, Black Deluxe Houndstooth, Factory Tach, Clock and Console Gauges. Front and Rear Spoilers.

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