breakin new motor - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 01, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
 
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Does anyone know the proper way to breakin a newly rebuilt 327. it hasn't been started yet
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 01, 01:29 AM
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Several ways:

1. New cam? then start engine, run at 2500 rpm for 15-20 mins to break-in camshaft. If any problems occur, stop eng and fix, then finish.

2. Find straight section of roadway, prefer 4-5 miles. Accelerate WOT from 30 to 60 mph then decel, no brakes, back to 30 mph. Do this 10-12 times. Four-speed, 4th gear, do not downshift. Automatic, try to not down shift, keep in drive.

3. Another method, do Step 2, then drive it like ya stole it!!

4. My method, has worked very well every time I've freshen my engine, take to drag strip and spend the day on the track. I know when the combustion chambers are sealed, the et's keep going down and mph goes up. When MPH levels out, I'm done.

After doing each step, change oil and filter.
Drive with a firm pedal, avoid prolong periods of same rpm's. Readjust valves, if needed, check/repair oil leaks, and coolant leaks.

Step 2. was very popular in the 50's & 60's, but ring technology got better, rings were made already lapped, thus, one usually drove the way they drove normally. Just keep a firm pedal.

Enjoy the ride!!

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 01, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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yes it has a new cam
Thanks for the break-in routine!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 01, 03:29 AM
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GM Good wrench has a post on their web page. Here is the link... http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/crate_en...l/ix_start.htm
hope this helps.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 01, 04:06 AM
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Thanks for the GM reference. that is real helpful!

Bigdaven - one thing I will make sure I do this time is fill the engine and cooling system as completely as possible before start up with water. If not, LOTS of air is trapped in the cooling system and the motor will run to the hot side and your radiator will puke all over your nice clean engine compartment. Do a search for engine startup under the general tech section and also the engine and driveling section and you will find some great ideas.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 01, 05:10 AM
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One simple thing you can do to get rid of the air in the cooling system is squeeze the top rad hose by hand. This usually avoids those nasty spill-overs.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 01, 05:23 AM
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Just a note on this, If this is a mill that someone built for you or a crate and has a warrantee follow their routine for break-in. Same for a cam swap... Everyone does it slightly different and to loose future service due to not doing it as the builder suggests could be costly...



------------------
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 01, 05:52 AM
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is the break in any different for a built motor? her in the next month or so im gonna be puttin my 475 horse 350 in my s-10. i printed out the thing on the gm website, but do i need to do it differently for more of a race motor?

cant wait to get this bad boy on the road and go spank some mudstains! and this guy running around in a 318 dakota that think hes hot $hit!!!!!
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 01, 11:24 AM
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fill your cooling system with straight water, no anti-freeze. this is because of the possability of a leak and if you have to pull it back out because of something going wrong, i hope this dose not happen but is dose every now and then, you just drain the water out. no anti-freeze police come knocking at your door. after you get it all broke in and tuned, drain and refill with regualr coolant.

i have found if you fill the motor through the thermastat hole, no therm or upper rad hose on, you will get 99% of all the air to burp out. this work's best if the front of the motor is higher then the rear. after you get the water to the levale of the the therm, install the therm and upper radiator hose and top it off. i have used this method many time's and it work's great.

i also like to turn the motor over with the distridutor dissabled with the radiator cap off a few time's to one prime the oil system and get oil pressure and to also help to burp the cooling system. i do this one day then let the motor sit overnight with the radiator cap off, do it again then hook up the distributor and fire it up. if you used good assembly lube, primed the motor on a motor stand before you droped it in, and have oil pressure. turning the motor with a starter will not hurt it at all.IMHO it is acctualy a good thing as the motor is turning over and the oil is getting to every thing this way. it also help's to blow the lint and dust that will have gotten into the bearing's when you put it together out of the bearing's. no matter how clean you are puting a motor together, you will alway's have some dust and lint in it and a few metale shaving's too. it just is a fact of motor building.

have fun and rember to take some pic's as it is like haveing a kid...hehehehehe
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