Re: sand/media blaster - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 00, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I have to do some body work on a camaro I recently purchased. I am a novice at body work. I want to purchase a media/Sand blaster. I already have a air compressor. What I need to know is who makes a good media/sand blaster. I think I need one that can shoot both media (small plastic balls) and sand. I have been told the sand is better for rust and the media is better for removing paint. How much should I expect to pay for this device cost? How much for the media and sand?

Like I said I am a novice and really have no idea what what I need. Any help would be greatly apprechated.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 00, 02:38 PM
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Bill,
Sand blasting takes a LOT of air.
The common 2 to 5 hp air compressor does not have enough volume of air to keep up with most sand blast guns of the siphon type.

There are pressure sand blasters that have a pressurised tank filled with sand that use less air. It is controlled by a "deadman" type valve that uncovers the nozzle from the outside using a rubber block.

Sand blasting will bend and warp panels if they are thin or flat or even pretty strong panels if a lot of pressure is used.

Plastic media and soda are used but get duller each time they go through the gun.
You need some way to contain the sand, or media, to re use it, and it will have paint with lead in it so it's a hazard and probably regulated by your local health agency.
So if you contaminate soil with it you could have an expensive clean up problem.

I know for having media blasting done here in California, it only pays if you have a lot of paint layers on the car to remove, or corrosion problems. Otherwise for plain flat panels just get some paint stripper and scrape the paint off.
Also, the media get's into corners and it will be shaking out of crevices for years to come.
David
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[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 12-15-2000).]
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 00, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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David,

I am going to have to strip down my whole car. It has at least two coats of paint on it (one at least not orginal color). I have seen on TV, the plastic media striping away paint extreamly quickly. I was all set to buy a media stripper till your comments. This is what I presently have.

A 5.5 30 gallon Air Compressor with a max CFM of 120. Do you think that this compressor would be large enough. Also if the plasic media gets worn quickly, what is the cost of it to replace it oftin. I would think it would take forever to strip my car with stripping solvents. However I have never done it before, so maybe it is not as bad as I am thinking. Thank you for your input.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 00, 08:45 PM
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Blk69,
It really doesn't take that long to strip a car. Use a good quality stripper like Kleen Strip Aircraft Remover, and WEAR GLOVES! That stuff hurts! I actually sat in it once- long story- but man my a$$ was on fire.
The easiest way to do it is work on one panel at a time, and lay cardboard under the area where you're working. Once you scrape all the old paint and goop onto the cardboard you can fold it up and throw it out. Then grab another piece and do the next panel. Aside from keeping your shop floor clean, the cardboard will ensure you don't kneel in a puddle of stripper. Done that too- when your dumb you gotta be tough!
Have fun! Pete
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 00, 09:56 PM
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I got a feeling that the chemical for paint stripping is Methylene Chloride and Cresylic acid (Cresol). BAD STUFF!!! You know, Carb Cleaner.

Hey David, wanta go into the plastic refractory gunning installation business.

You talk about sand blasting and needing plenty of air, When we were R&Ding the plastic gunning I got hooked up to a 1600 cfm G/D air compressor set on 125psi with a 2" material hose. The SOB would lift me up like a Cobra snake and shake me. You had to hold it because you couldn't run fast enough to get away from it before it blasted you if it got away from you!!!

I'm sure glad I'm away from that!!!pdq67



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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 00, 11:40 PM
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Chemically stripping a car, if done properly, will take 1/4 of the time it will take to strip the car with a 5 1/2 HP compressor. And A LOT cheaper.
The biggest problem with chemical stripper is that it dries before it can completely do it's job.
Follow these steps and it's a snap. Apply one thick coat of stripper. As soon as it's on, cover it with cheese cloth. The porous type. Apply a second coat of stripper over the cheese cloth. Make sure all of the area you are stripping is kept wet with stripper. Let it sit for 20 minutes. Peel off the cheese cloth and then scrape off the rest of the paint.
Yuo'll be amazed at how effective this is.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 16th, 00, 02:57 AM
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I have a 6hp 80gal 175psi compressor(sam's club 649.99) and a 40pound pressure feed sand blaster from northern(69.99)I used this on my sub frame worked great but a bit messy in the drive way .I plan to get an old camper as a blasting room to contain the sand (sand pit 1.50 /100lb bag -2bags)I haven't tried it on any panels yet but have been told to a good angle not to steep and I shouldn't have any problems !!

good luck !!! and let us know how you make out

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 16th, 00, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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Ok guys, who make a good paint stripper. How much per gallon should it cost and how much will I need to strip a car.

Are you all in consensis that I would be better to chemically strip my car, and any rust/bondo/who know what I find under the paint, sand out instead of sand blast out.

Also I have a fiberglass rear spoiler (org). Will the paint stipper effect the fiber glass?

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 16th, 00, 06:04 AM
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For the most part, paint stripper is paint stripper. On the can, it might also be called Aircraft stripper. Just dont use it on your spoiler, it creates to much heat and will ruin it.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 16th, 00, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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What should I use for the fiberglass spoiler?

Mineral Spirts?
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 16th, 00, 05:33 PM
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Do not use any chemical on the spoiler. The chemical will seep in the glass and the paint will bubble on you.

Good ole hand sand is the best. Media blasting will put pores and divits in it.

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 00, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Camaroguy. Looks like I have some hand sanding ahead.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 00, 12:52 PM
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They make special stripper for fiberglass, I used Capt'n Lees on my vette and it worked great, Iused Aircraft stripper on my Camaro and it worked great. The cardboard method is great, works well. you will be suprised on what you find under your paint. chemical stripping takes off all filler, and blasting it can leave most of it. Good luck

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 00, 02:24 AM
 
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BLK69,

I was just reading my favorite rag (Chevy High Performance) and noticed next months feature article will be on Paint and Body, with a special article on "Stripping Techniques" If your not in too much of a hurry perhaps you may want to wait and see what CHP has to say! It will be the March issue available on the rack January 16th.
Good luck, I hope you remove more paint than bondo

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 00, 11:43 AM
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If your paint is air dried enamel, (most repaints are) try using a single edge razor blade to zip off the enamel layer. I've found this to be quite effective. BE CAREFUL!! wear eye protection, little paint shards can shoot up if the enamel is old and brittle. Start around a paint chip, then while holding the protected edge of the blade with both hands between your thumbs and index fingers, lightly push. The enamel will zip right off! Unfortunately, you'll still have to chemically strip the original laquer thats most likely still underneath. I've used all sorts of strippers, and have found Zip Strip to be as effective as any, It's a wood stripper usually found at hardware stores, and I'm mentioning it only because it's often advertised on sale (it's still going to run around $18-$20.00 a gal.) I found the cheese cloth idea interesting, but try ordinary saran wrap as well. I would work in a small area, cover it for about 10-15 mins. then push the used gook over to a new spot and then cover that spot. You can only stretch it so far, but it will still strip. I also used steel wool to clean down to bare metal. The factory primer is very tough to remove, straight stripper on the steel wool (medium grade) would get it off. Be careful with the steel wool debris, as not to let it get into any openings. I would recommend totally removing all sheet metal, it makes for a better job, but it's not always possible Good Luck

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