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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 00, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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I built a 69 and I'm having the custom interior put in soon. I've had some posts in other sections about 1/4 times and I've heard that with what I've built the tracks will require a 8pt cage after one run. I'm not going to take it to the track all the time but it would be nice to be able to go and not get turned away.
I'm looking for people opinions on the roll cage before I have the interior done.
Thanks for the replys.
Bob



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69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 00, 03:23 PM
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Bob, as long as run a 12.0 or slower your fine, but with your engine combo we can forget about that. I'm actually in the same situation about the interior. I really hate the idea about the cage, but if you want to have fun and open the car up at the track you have to have one. Here's what I'm going to do: I want the interior of the car to be as close to stock as possible. So the stock seats, carpet, etc. will all be going back in. I purchased an 8-point roll cage from s&w that has the normal hoop, front & rear bars, & crossmember. I also ordered their pro-street kit which sends the rear bars up and over the back seat and through the package tray. As for the cross bar I ordered an extra swing out kit allowing me to attach it with s&w's removable pins. This way I can run a 5-point harness when I want, or take the bar completely out. As for the front door bar, you only need the driver's side to be legal, so you can set that up the same way with the pins and just leave it out of the car for normal driving.

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1968 SS 350 coupe, w/ 406 inches of tremec shifted mouse.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 00, 03:25 PM
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John
 
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I believe you are right about the cages afatre one run. I'm not sure what the splits are but NHRA requires different levels of safety equipment based on the elapsed time capability of the car. So if you make one run without a cage and break into one of their E.T.'s that require a cage your night is over until you comply. As for weather or not to install a cage that cpmplies to NHRA rules it would all depend on how willing you are to put up with the limited access a cage would put on your car. Also these cages can't be bolted in they must be welded which would compound the difficulty of your upholster's job. Sort of a dilema when you have a very fast street car and want to wring it out at the track once in awhile.

John
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 00, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Torker is there any posability that you could send me S&W phone #?
I'd like to see my options before it gets upholstered.
Thanks, Bob
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 00, 04:52 PM
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The phone number for s&w is 1(800) 523-3353 or try www.swracecars.com they have prices on the website.

As far as to be NHRA legal in the 11.99 to 10.99 et range you must have a roll cage of 6 points or better, you must also have a driveshaft loop, harnesses, longer wheel studs, fire jacket, helmet (duh), dual throttle return springs, no more than 12 inches of rubber fuel line, remote battery switch if you have a trunk mounted battery, and a radiator overflow can. Am I forgetting anything?
There are also certain specs that must be met when welding in the cage. S&W cages are NHRA legal. To be absolutely sure about the positioning of the bars before welding get the NHRA rule book. I beleive swing out / removeable door braces are O.K., at least I've seen them pass tech. I know some tracks are more strict than others.

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1968 SS 350 coupe, w/ 406 inches of tremec shifted mouse.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 00, 05:53 PM
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Freddie
 
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I can tell you from experience that climbing over that door bar all the time is a pain in the rear! But you also need to consider that you risk twisting your car if you don't put something in the car to stiffen it up. That was the reason I put the bars in my car. Sub frame connectors will only do so much. And yes it does make the interior very hard to instal. I still don't have all of mine done yet.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 00, 06:17 AM
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Cool

I've installed an eight-point bar in mine and
it is almost invisible. However, definitely
helps in keeping car straight. Shouda done this long time ago. My sidebars don't swing out, but wasn't that hard to install interior
Painted semi-gloss black and padded w/upholstery and foam around head area. Works great, but kills the sleeper image.

Everett/68/350/PG/11.90
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 00, 07:40 AM
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I would highly recommend the S&W kit. I put one of their 8 point kits in my 69 which when finished will go faster then 9.99. It fits great, alot beter than some of the other kits available. I also used the pro-street rear bars that go through the package shelf so I can reinstall the rear seat. I angled the main hoop rearward to match the trim on the quarter glass, it helped to mask the bar some. Do the roll bar BEFORE the interior.

According to the NHRA rule book you can run 10.00 and slower with a 5 point roll bar so long as the car body or floor pans have not been modified from the firewall back (Wheeltubs Permitted). Swing out sidebars are permitted but there are some very specific rules for them. You could also make the cross bar behind the front seats a bolt in item so you could remove it when not at the track. The roll bar itself can be a bolt in but there are very specific rules on this also, the bar is welded to a 6"x6"x.125" plate with four min 3/8" bolts and another plate the same size on the bottom sandwiching the car. All welding must be MIG or TIG. My advice would be to get a copy of the NHRA rulebook. If you think the car will be leaving pretty hard I would go ahead and install a 6 point cage with swing out/removable side bars on both sides. The extra support will help you leave straight and have less tendency to twist the body.
Stephen

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67 RS/SS 350 700R4
69 SS clone unfinished
72 454 Weekend Racer

[This message has been edited by squarles (edited 12-18-2000).]

[This message has been edited by squarles (edited 12-18-2000).]
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 00, 07:52 AM
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Squarles is correct about the 10.00 ET and 5 point roll bar. Competition Engineering has a pretty nice swing out side bar. They claim it is the only one approved by the NHRA, but I've seen others pass tech. Or you can run with street radials and skip the roll bar.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 00, 11:23 AM
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Carl
 
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What is the NHRA's postion on roll bars that are bolted into the sail panel similar to the 60's vintage Shelby Mustangs?

Fabricating a bracket that would fasten into the factory shoulder belt attachment would be straightforward, but perhaps not as strong as the full rearward tube.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 00, 04:44 AM
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If the car has a frame the bar must be welded to the frame.

A unibody car such as the first gen can be bolted as I said above but it has to be to the floor. It can also be welded to a 6x6x.125 plate that is welded to the rocker sill. I welded mine to the rocker sill.
Stephen

------------------
67 RS/SS 350 700R4
69 SS clone unfinished
72 454 Weekend Racer
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 00, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to make some calls and see what's available.

Have a Happy and Safe Holiday.

------------------
69 Coupe LeMans-Blue
Frame-Off Resto, ZZ-502/502 Crate, A/C, Griffin Rad., March Serpintine Sys., 2800 Stall with Hughes T-400, Currie 9" with 370 Gears.
http://www.geocities.com/mobiletools1/Mvc-440f.jpg
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