cutting hole in tranny hump for muncie conversion - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 00, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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I've been rounding up the parts for a powerglide to muncie swap in my 68 and I finally got everything (had to wait 7 weeks for the hurst shifter linkage from Summit). Anyway my question is- does anybody have a mistake proof way of cutting the hole for the shifter in the trany hump ? Are there any reference points that can be used as a guide ? I'm installing all the factory shifter stuff- boot, retainer, etc. and don't want it to turn into a hack job. Any help would be appreiated.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 00, 05:26 PM
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I'd run a string across the car from the rear edge of the left kick panel to the right kick panel just about where the domelight switches are in the door jamb and get a measurement front to rear, left to right from there.
David

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 00, 01:47 AM
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BH3Chevy,

I'm in the process of doing the same thing, except on a 69. I've been told to find a four speed car and take lots of measurements and pictures. I can't believe someone or some company hasn't made a template of some sort to make it simple. I'll let you know if I find out anything, and please do the same for me.

Jay
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 00, 05:07 AM
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bhchevy,

You have mail!

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 00, 09:06 AM
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If you guys come up with any solutions, could you please post them? I've been wanting to do the same thing, but have held off for fear of botching the job. Thanks.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 00, 12:24 PM
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I have the carpet out of my 67 with factory 4-spd. I'll get the measurements with reference to the front bracket holes and two rear console mounting holes if you think that will help. It might be better to trace the outline on two sheets of 8 1/2" x 11" paper end-to-end and fax it instead.
I'm not at home right now, but I recall that hole was skewed toward the left side of the hump, rather than being centered.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 00, 12:55 PM
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I dont know if this will help, but with a hurst shifter on a new process 4 spd od tranny, we had to cut a bigger hole to the left of the tunnel. the console will not fit over this combo. the correct tranny (M-20 that needs rebuilding) has a offset shifter set up to line up with the console and the factory hole in the tunnel. the orrg shifter is a round stick hurst and we're using a rectangular stick hurst on the od tranny

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 00, 04:18 PM
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When I installed my floor shifter (power glide) and console I noted that the floor hump has several dimples in the metal.
The shifter and console bolts lined right up with these dimples. Thats where I drilled them. I also noted at the same time there was 4 dimples in a square pattern to the rear of the shifter I would venture a guess that these are the reference points for cutting the floor shifter hole. Take a close look these dimples are small but they are there.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 00, 06:40 AM
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this may not be the best way, but it worked the last two times I did an auto/manual swap. I bolted the motor in and used a floor jack to hold the trans up. The shifter/linkage was already attached. I then carefully jacked the trans up with the shifter in the neutral position until it dimpled the floor. I used a wiz and cut a small hole so the shifter fit through and the cut away just enough for the shifter to have full range of motion. Finally, I bolted up the crossmember . Done. Hope this helps.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 00, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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jwalsh - Your way is what I had in mind. Seems like I should get pretty close using that method. I bought a new lift last fall that should make things pretty easy. Thanks to all for your suggestions. We'll find out this weekend how it works out.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 00, 07:54 AM
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What tools did you guys use to cut the floor pan? I'm trying to figure out what would be easiest and the most precise. Thanks.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 00, 12:44 PM
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I used a 'wiz'. It is a small air tool with a 3in wide spinning, metal cutting blade.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 00, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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I'm planning on using my 4 1/2" angle grinder. With a new blade.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 00, 10:45 AM
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If you have just a single layer of sheet metal to cut through and you don't already have a 4spd backing plate spot welded there, then use an air nibbler. They make much cleaner edges than a sabre saw or sawsall blade. By backing plate, I mean the plate that looks like the boot retainer ring, but it is mounted from below the tunnel hole and has tapped holes to secure the boot retainer ring.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 00, 01:02 PM
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Okay, thanks guys.
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