Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Washington, Michigan USA
Don't forget that a 50-50 mix of antifreeze not only provides all the water pump seal lubrication and corrosion protection your system requires (priced a new radiator lately? changed a heater core lately?), but also it won't boil (and puke on the ground) until it reaches 265 degrees. The difference in heat transfer thermal efficiency between plain water and 50-50 antifreeze is minimal at best, and if a 265-degree boiling point isn't enough, there are other far more serious problems than coolant type. Nothing beats a complete stock, fully operational cooling system. "Band-Aids" like "Water-Wetter" just postpone the inevitable - it may help reduce bubble formation where the coolant touches the hot wall of a coolant passage, but it's still the radiator that has to transfer the heat to the air, and a typical old scaly radiator is about 50% as efficient in transferring heat as a new one. With a radiator in GOOD condition and ALL the original elements of the stock cooling system in place and functioning properly (radiator seals, shroud, fan, clutch, etc.), the stock cooling system will do the job. If you add more engine, that's more heat rejection to the coolant, and you may need more radiator - leave the rest of the system in place, as it all has to work together as a system (like it was designed and developed to do). When you start removing parts of the system (like shrouds, fans and clutches, for instance), the efficiency of the "system" is drastically reduced, and (surprise!), you have "cooling problems", which keep outfits like Griffin, Be-Cool, Spal, and Flex-A-Lite in business selling fancy stuff that doesn't work as well as the stock complete cooling system did originally.
'69 Z28 Fathom Green