Bee Cool in a 69... - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old May 8th, 01, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone running a Bee Cool rad & elec fan?
Looking for input and what is needed for a complete upgrade (rad, fan, cap, ???)

Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 05:11 AM
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I am not running one, but have seen plenty of them and read some of the posts. You did not say why you wanted to swap, but as far as running hot, most of the problems seem to stem from not running a proper clutch fan, to flexible of a fan (flex-a-light) or not using the proper cowl set up. My point is that I have seen post where the radiator was swaped and it didn't make any difference as the radiator was not the problem. My feeling is that if the radiator is bad, then replace it with the best you can get. But if its not bad, then maybe there are other places to start first (proper fan set up, upgraded water pump). Does anyone know, assuming everything is in good working order as designed, what would make make the biggest improvement in efficiency: stock for the BeCool or going to a larger volume water pump???
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input Green!

That brings up another question:
I have a 67 327 in my 69. Can I put a short OR long water pump on it? What is the diff?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 06:19 AM
 
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The difference is the way the other pulleys will line up with the water pumps pulley.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 07:15 AM
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Let me tell you .....it is awesome. I have one and when I broke my engine in we were so busy setting timing and forgot to put the radiator cap on and it still never went over 195. I am very pleased with mine.

------------------
68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,Autometer guage pod
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 07:23 AM
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Over on the "Thermostat" thread an interesting point was just made. If you overheat while stopped you have an air movement problem. If you overheat while moving you have a capacity problem.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Mreetz,
do you know if a 67 327 should have a short or long pump? How can I tell which I have?

CA420,
do you have any pics of your installation???

Thanks to both of you!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 08:10 AM
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I was on the Holley/Wieand site looking at water pumps according to them and they show the dimensions a short is 5.90 inches from where the water pump bolts to the block and the forward face where the pulley goes and a long pump is 6.90 inches

------------------
Black 69 camaro
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 10:33 AM
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Have taken pics but do not have a digital camera. I have an aluminum Edelbrock water pump, Be Cool direct fit Radiator and a Spal electric fan. I went from the factory four bladed non clutched fan to a flex fan and still ran hot on my old engine also a 327. My new engine I just decided to go electric since it will pull more air through the radiator than the flex fan and I have a 3200 stall convertor and with the extra cooling capacity of the radiator and an external tranny cooler the extra heat need to be incorporated into the cooling system.

Try just buying an electric fan and see if it helps in your case. I suggest at least a 16 inch diameter. Wire it to an toggle switch and you can turn it on or off when you want or you can put a thermostat in the head or intake and it will come on at the temperature it is rated for. I wired mine for both so that if the thermostat fails I can manually turn it on and keep from over heating the engine.

------------------
68 RS, Ash Gold,pwr windows,Hounds tooth,355/T350,Autometer guage pod
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 01:27 PM
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Some of the multiple electric fan setups work great around town, but the extensive shrouding actually restricts airflow at highway speeds. Water pumps are hardly ever part of a cooling problem, regardless of the marketing hype, and a "high-flow" pump can actually make it worse by moving coolant too rapidly through the radiator so it can't reject the heat fully in one pass.

Assuming your hoses are in good shape (and the lower one isn't collapsing under suction due to the reinforcing spring wire being corroded away) and your thermostat is operating properly, all that's left is the radiator, shroud, and fan. The radiator should be sealed to the rad support so the air is forced to go through it, not around it, the factory shroud should be intact, and a functioning factory-type clutch fan is far better than a flex-fan. The correct fan clutch will place only the front half of the fan blades inside the shroud for best efficiency.

If all this is in place and you still have a cooling problem, especially at highway speed, it's the radiator not having adequate cooling capacity. Old copper/brass radiators build up scale and corrosion inside the tubes (especially if anti-freeze hasn't been kept fresh - changed every two years - and used at a 50-50 mix), which acts as an insulator and drastically reduces the heat transfer from the coolant to the air flowing over the tubes and fins. Usually they can be rodded-out, or re-cored, to restore their original heat transfer efficiency. If not, the aftermarket aluminum radiators will normally provide the required cooling capacity, although they need proper fans and shrouds too, or they won't be able to do the job around town. Proper anti-freeze is even more important with an aluminum radiator in order to prevent corrosion, as they can't be reliably repaired if they develop corrosion leaks.

The original factory fan/shroud/radiator design resulted from a lot of development work, and they work well; generally problems begin when people start modifying them or removing or substituting the correct pieces with other stuff that isn't part of a "system". Before you spend big bucks for an aluminum radiator, make sure the stock system is in proper working order, and is as it was designed to begin with, not a collection of catalog stuff with miracle advertising claims that wasn't designed so all the pieces work together as a system.

------------------
JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old May 9th, 01, 05:50 PM
 
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That was a very good post JohnZ. FYI I just had my radiator checked out and they said I was down 8 gal/min of flow. They recommended having the radiator recored. This was a 3 core(row) radiator. They told me that they could fit a 4 row core between the tanks so I had them do it. This was a stock 69Z radiator.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 06:45 AM
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I have a complete Be cool setup. I called there tech department before ordering and got there input on all there componets.My alum rad is rated for 600 ci and 1000 hp.I'm running a 540 ci.They suggested twin 13' electric fans and there own wiring harness,you can pick from a couple different temp settings for turn on and off temp.Haven't fired my motor yet should be in about four weeks.Will let you know how it works.

Brian Weil
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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asumtoy540, approx how much does a complete setup set ya' back?

Thanks.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old May 10th, 01, 08:19 AM
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It was about 1,100 dollars.I polished it my self they get about 150 bucks to do it.Mounting brackets are all billet alum,fans have rubber cushions that sit on the rad face not tie rapped like most,hope this helps.

Brian Weil
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