changing jets on holley 4160 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 01, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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joseph l clance
 
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69 camaro 350 cid, Holley 4160. Recently changed secondary vacuume spring from black (factory) to purple.... Yellow produced slight bog. Noticable increase in power and gas consumption. Holley specs suggest primaries are .69 w/ secondaries are 134 -39 ????. Noticed that other holley 600cfm had primary jets as low as .63. Would like to tune air/ fuel mixture to produce optimal power and mileage ( although if they conflict, will opt. for performance) THe question is ; how difficult is it to change the primary jets? Do you have to remove the carbeurator? What size range should I begin with or how low should i start. Plan to assess the performance by plug inspection and 1/4 mile speed....not time.

350cid, 3speed manual trans, 3:55 rear posi.

suggestions and experiences appreiciated.

thx. joe.c
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 01, 05:05 PM
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I would suggest that you watch someone else do it. It is not hard but there are tricks that are much easier to learn watching someone that has done it before.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 12:46 AM
 
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Yeah, just pop the carb off (4 bolts and some hoses). Then, take the float bowls off and you can access what is known as the metering plate. The jets are just screw-in little buggers that are as easy to change as a simple light bulb. I think Holleys come stock with #71 jets, and that is set for sealevel. They say reduce jet size by one number for every 2000 feet of altitude. I am at 3600 feet above sea level, and my Holley took a set of #69's. (69 DUDE!)

[This message has been edited by BreathWeapon (edited 04-13-2001).]
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 06:12 AM
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you dont have to remove the carb to change the primary jets. pull off the float bowl and change them. 3 jet sizes is a normal step up or down. 2 jet sizes is a fine step.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 06:37 AM
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You guys make it sound too easy how about the transfer tube O ring or the bowl gasket that may need changing and if you mess with the metering block you will have to change that gasket.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 05:04 PM
 
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If the carb is fairly old, then yeah you will likely destroy the gaskets when you take the metering block off. You can get new ones in a kit for cheap. Also, it is not 100% necessary to take the carb offf to do the job, but the accelerator pump arm is awkward to work around when the carb is still on the engine. It really is an easy job to do, and your local parts store will have a complete overhaul manual you can get for around 15-20 bucks.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 01, 10:56 AM
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You will probably damage the gaskets when you pull the bowl - if your parts place doesn't have the new non-stick (blue) Holley gaskets, spray some "Pam" (yeah, the stuff your wife uses in a frying pan) on both sides of the regular gaskets before you install them and next time you pull the bowl, you can re-use the gasket. Been doing this for years. Hint: Buy your own "Pam" - your wife won't like digging through the garage to find hers .

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 01, 01:14 PM
 
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Good advice about the PAM. That would do the job alright. I have used WD-40 in the past and that works too.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 01, 01:31 PM
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I have used 30W motor oil. it work's too.
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