Air compressor recommendations? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Hi all,
I'm shopping for an air compressor to do moderate duty work. I'd like it to work well with a gravity-fed sandblaster that I bought and run air tools well.

The one I'm looking at is a Craftsman 135psi, 33 gallon/6hp unit that does 8.6scfm @40psi and 6.4scfm @90psi.

I'm not worried about the noise (it'll be mounted outside) and not too concerned with how often it'll have to refill itself. I won't be painting the whole car with it or anything. Whattya think? The next step up are $600 units and I'm not spending that much for something I won't use very often.

Thanks for the recommendations!



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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 06:02 AM
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Joe,
do a search in this section, we talked about compressors last year a bunch.
Shop the CFM
Cast iron pump a plus
Get a good size tank
Look for cooling fins on the compressor lines
The quietest pumps are the ones that the compressor runs lower RPM's and still puts out good CFM. They use a big compressor and gear it down so it lasts longer and is quieter. Most take a little compressor and turn it faster.
David

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Great! I'll do that. Thanks again David.

(went to read the archives.....)

How about adding a second, 20 or 30 gal. holding tank to a 30 gallon compressor? After reading all of the past posts about this, I guess more tank doesn't necessarily mean more airtime. I may do the longer hose setup and see. Maybe both together will keep the thing from running as much, and it'll be outside and in the shade so it should stay cool enough. Man, I'd hate to destroy a brand new compressor but an 80 gallon, 2 stage unit running on 220 volts is absolutely out of the question. I just wired/drywalled the garage and I'm not tearing it up again.... besides, I'm not rich.

I'll make the 30 gal. 135psi unit work.

Thanks again....



[This message has been edited by HwyStarJoe (edited 03-22-2001).]
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 09:52 AM
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sounds good, I worked the bejesus out of a 5 horse cart type portable sears unit and two things I did to it probably helped.
I turned a fan on it when glass beading or using the body grinder/DA sander.
I extended the output copper tube from the compressor head to tank and ran it in a couple of loops in front of the compressor pulley which had fan blades cast into it for better cooling.
That thing got so hot it would heat up the hoses and water would come squirting out of the tool which was more cold from use.
The hotter the air, the more moisture it will carry.
With the larger tank you should have less problems like that. But if you pipe air into the garage, the added pipe will cool the air more, try to angle the pipe so the water will drain back to the compressor where it can be drained out.
Make a drop leg below the outlets that extend one foot below the outlet and put a ball valve at the bottom so you can easily drain the drop leg.
I have plumbed two shops in schedule 40 1" pipe but I've heard it's not OSHA approved for air.
The weakness concern is in the glue joints when hot up in the rafters where heat collects.
Here on the coast of California, it doesn't get that hot and I used a two part purple primer and grey glue to do the joints. I have over 400' of air pipe in my shop! It's been in there for 10 years at 175psi. The pipe is rated at 450 psi.

the first PVC shop I did was our farm shop and it's been working for 20 years with same pipe and glue.
I have two friends with the same stuff, but used the one setp clear glue. Theirs are around 15 years old. No problems.
David

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[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 03-22-2001).]
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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David, those are great ideas. I can put the compressor outside, pipe it in and up to the rafters, and have a second tank somewhere in the mix just before the gun/tool that will be the moisture collector/reserve. I won't need 450' of pipe.... but 25'-30' will do. And I love the idea you used to extend the copper tube into several loops.

I've already got the garage rafter area vented and have the fan unit out of a range/stove hood rigged inside one of them to suck the hot air up thru it. It pays to save everything that's left over from home remodeling projects!

One of these days I'll update my web site with more photos... just gotta get a few more rolls developed.



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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 11:16 AM
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Joe, I got an Ingersol Rand 30 gal portable that I love. It was around $400.00 7 years ago. Shop around. Do you have a Graingers nearby? I know they carry Dayton which aren't too bad. I love Craftsmen tools, but I've never heard anything about thier compressors. Can you place it in your basement? I couldn't, but I've heard great things about this. Also run a 220 line to it if you can. I ran a dryer plug with romex up into my gararge. It will draw fewer amps on 220.

John
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 07:27 PM
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Harbor Freight has free delivery to most states.
Here is a 60 gallon 6hp unit for $429 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf...emnumber=32357

You will be much happier with a cast iron oil sump compressor than that teflon ringed self lubricating Sears compressor.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 22nd, 01, 07:52 PM
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i have a cast iron oil lubed 25 gal. i love it.

here is a tip get a water drain valve from a truck shope, you know for an air brake system. mount it on your tank and rout a cable to it. this way you just pull a cabble to drain it no turning a petcock.

also the extra tank is a good idea as it will help you with CMF, the more compressed air you have the longer it take's ti kick the compressor on.

plastic pipe is a good idea, you can also use nylon air pipeing like is used on truck's. no glueing cause you ca nuce compression fitting's or push to conect one's. just get a spool of the hose in say 1/2"ID or 3/4"ID.

for conector's on tool's and stuff i like one that is made by parker. it is a 2 stage quick conector. it has a locking ring that lock's when you push the male into the female. then you manualy engage the air one. this way you can hook a toll up on handed and not wory about it turning on by mistake. i feel it is safer. here is a pic of the type i like. http://www.parker.com/quickcouplings...atic/gifEZ.gif


[This message has been edited by ilbl8 (edited 03-22-2001).]

[This message has been edited by ilbl8 (edited 03-22-2001).]
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 01, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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John,
Yeah... there's Graingers nearby. I could probably even get a commercial discount there. (helps to be friends with our car-loving facilities manager!) I never thought to put it in the basement! That's a damn good idea. But the 220 is a problem. My service panel might be maxed-out and needs to be upgraded anyway.

Bonecrusher67conv,
I hear a lot of good things about Campbell-Hausfeld stuff. As hard as I am on tools, spending $280 on a Craftsman job is looking more and more like a bad idea. They're starting to look like overgrown bicycle pumps to me now.

ilbl8,
I like those quick-disconnects you showed me. They look very sturdy. I'm getting more and more great ideas from everyone. Before ya know it, I'll have all the neighbors bringing their cars over for service.... Hmmmm, what's a good mechanic charge these days?

Thanks all!



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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 23rd, 01, 06:49 AM
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they also make a no scratch one for body work, and it work's!!!! you can have the fiting drag accross a hood and it will not leav a mark. here is a pic of it. http://www.parker.com/quickcouplings...gifEZNoMar.gif

i would only use this type on a paint shop tho as the covering can be wron off my draging it accros the floor.
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